I really liked my Smith & Wesson SWAT knife. The steel wasn’t the world’s best; the Chinese-made blade held an edge like Shannon Richards holds a degree in nuclear particle physics. But the SWAT knife was an ergonomic dream come true (the knife, not Ms. Richards, although I’m sure that probably applies as well). More to the point (so to speak) the SWAT knife paired beautifully with my beloved Smith & Wesson 686 revolver. The knife and gun shared Quaker-like simplicity, pleasing heft and rock-solid robustness. Until the 686’s internal lock failed and the SWAT knife’s locking system gave up the ghost. Anyway, I’m building me an M&P for IDPA. I reckon the $33.29 (plus S&H)Ā M&P Linerlock Knife would be a suitable edged accompaniment. Amazon acolyte AaronGH is not sure. In fact, you can hear him screaming (in a retro sort of way) DANGER WILL ROBINSON!
Click here to read the 411 on AaronGH’s summer fling fail with theĀ M&P Linerlock Knife at The Truth About Knives.
No smith and wesson knives for me. I donated blood to a liner lock smith and wesson that came open in my pocket. Too close to bits I cherish to run that risk. Cut two fingers when I reached into my pocket to get the knife. Not major injuries but enough to put me off the breed.
Heh.
I have a Ken Onion Leek spring assisted knife and it took me two times finding it open in my back pocket to get the message that maybe it shouldn’t be my every day knife.
No blood though, fortunately.
I have a SOG Flash II in my toolbox for this very reason. Now carry a CRKT Ignitor-T w/firesafe. 18 months edc and never come open of it’s own accord.
I carry a Kershaw Speedsafe that I got from woot for around ten bucks.
I got over spending more than $20 on pocketknives a while back when I finally slapped myself around a little and made peace with the fact that 90% of my knife using is digging out splinters and cutting rope and I don’t need a $70 knife for either of those activities.
+1 on the Kershaw Speedsafe technology. I EDC a Kershaw 1555 Cryo. You get Hinderer design for only about $32. Although it’s a little on the small side, 2.75 inch blade, it works great for everyday uses. And all-steel construction with a frame lock, so it won’t break on you ever.
i really like onions’ designs carried a couple different models for the past few years never had one open unintended though i always switch the pocket clip to the blade down position, curious as to if that makes the difference.
edit: shallot is my fav.
Spyderco Endura 4″ with VG-10 blade. Don’t f@ck around – get a solid blade.
VG-10 is a spectacular steel. Mine has busted the sternum of a javelina then caped it and also sliced the carpet out of an entire apartment. Carpet is a real bitch on a blade! VG-10 is pretty easy to sharpen and keeps an edge like the dickens.
I’d like to hear more about the 686 internal lock failure. Care to elaborate?
Here is a better choice in a S&W (IMHO)
http://www.ftfindustries.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FI&Product_Code=AD-SWMP1600&Category_Code=SW-K
And, it’s an automatic. It’s been my EDC for about a year now, no problems whatsoever. Holds an edge, feels great, looks great.
S30V is a great steel.
For the price (~$33), I think you can probably find a suitable Kershaw, Gerber, or CRKT knife to replace it (if you don’t mind Chinese made). Amazon stocks plenty, though I don’t know about shipping to other states because of knife rules. Here in WA state, I’ve never had a problem.
I have a 2 Smith and Wesson M&P M.A.G.I.C. Assisted liner lock knives, series 3 and series 5. Both cost about $30 give or take a few bucks and have a slide lock button to prevent them from springing open in your pocket. For the price point, they are a pretty decent knife. The series 3 I purchased with a tanto style blade, it keeps an edge fairly well and is very comfortable to use. It is my go to EDC.
That thing has “mall ninja” written all over it. If I’m going to drop $33 on a blade, it’s going to be something from a quality knife maker, not something that looks like it came from a gas station.
And just because the blade steel is made in China doesn’t mean it’s inferior. Kershaw and Spyderco both make some nice, inexpensive knives with it.
4034 stainless, it appears, is comparable to 420. In other words, it will take an extremely keen edge, but is also extremely quick to dull. Based on personal standards, this steel falls WAY short of being acceptable for everyday use. 56 Rock is a tad soft; 58 and up is my usual standard.
Depending upon your own usage pattern, this knife seems marginal, especially if you really, REALLY need it to work first time, every time. The design is interesting, if not pleasing, to the eye. And S&W is hardly the industry standard when it comes to work or duty knives.
For $30 I would much rather buy a Spyderco. They actually make their knives for cutting stuff š
Rather than buying this knife and then buying a replacement after it breaks, save up and get a good knife.
I’ve never seen a liner lock that I would trust to not close. My cheap $20 Buck with midback lock is all US made to boot.
Gun companies manufacture guns, and S&W does this well. Attempting to capitalize on their well known name by licensing is a non starter if they decide to use companies who make subpar quality goods. One can get reasonably priced quality knives from companies such as Gerber, CRKT, Kershaw or Spyderco to name a few.
Life is too short for Chinese made knives…
Iām building me an M&P for IDPA.
As a certified (certifiable?) Smith & Wesson weenie, I welcome you to the dark side. We don’t have cookies, but we do have bourbon.
However, I’m not much of a fan of brand extensions, like S&W knives or S&W security services. Even with my beloved Smith & Wesson, reach sometimes exceeds grasp.
Speak for yourself.
Cookies to admire your S&Ws with:
1 Cup dark-brown sugar
1/2 Cup granulated (white) sugar
1 Cup (aka 16 Tablespoons if you don’t want to pack it into a cup) butter-flavor Crisco shortening (comes in a big can, or in expensive, pre-measured sticks if you want to be a weenie about it).
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract (NOT imitation)
2 Eggs (equal opportunity – white *or* brown)
1 Teaspoon baking soda
1 Teaspoon salt
~1/4 Teaspoon cinnamon
2 1/4 Cups Gold Medal all-purpose flour (aka three uses of a 3/4 Cup measure)
12 ounces (usually 1 package) semi-sweet or dark-chocolate chips
Tools (aka, junk you have to clean later – and why we’re not messing with a fiddly electric mixer for this) : Large bowl to mix in, cookie sheet, large spoon, spatula, 1 Teaspoon measure, 1 Tablespoon measure, Cup measures.
1. Put the shortening in the mixing bowl along with the sugars. (If you really want to conserve on things you have to wash you can use 3/4 Cup of brown and white sugar each, but using 1 Cup and 1/2 Cup respectively tastes better.) Mush together with a spoon and mix until an even-colored, soft mixture is had (should take just a minute or two and doesn’t require much hand strength).
2. Add the vanilla to the sugar/shortening mix and stir until flavoring is evenly spread out and mixed in. Once that is done, crack both eggs and add them to the mixture. Stir the mixture until you can’t see any more areas where the egg white glistens (takes just a minute or so). If you add the vanilla second, it will preferentially incorporate into where the egg-white is; so add it before.
3. Add the soda, salt, and cinnamon. Stir until even again and you can’t see streaks of powder.
4. Turn oven on to 375 F and add 2 1/4 cups flour to the bowl. The oven should finish preheating about the time you get the flour mixed in. Just dump the flour in and get to smooshing. Once all the flour is incorporated, add the chocolate chips and stir/fold with the spoon until you get them roughly evenly distributed through the dough.
5. Drop roughly spoon-sized dollops (it varies with the size of cookie you want; generally smaller than a golf ball and larger than a grape in size) on the cookie sheet in a 3 x 4 pattern. I generally just use my hands for this.
6. Put in the oven until cooked. That means the edge and top will be golden-brownish and the top center won’t glisten anymore. You’ll learn what they look like pretty quick. Depending on the oven, fuel type, and local atmospheric conditions I’ve seen this take anywhere from 9 to 13 minutes. Don’t be overly concerned about burning them, that’s a ways past “done” and you almost have to try to do it. If the cookie is still kinda liquid inside, they could go longer; if they’re dry and hard, they’ve gone way too long.
7. Take cookies off of the cookie sheet with the spatula. If you leave them on the cookie sheet to cool, they will glue themselves to the sheet. Put them on a dinner plate or something of similar size to cool. (They make cookie cooling racks, but they’re a pain in the butt to clean and don’t do any different a job than just putting them on a plate – so don’t bother.) Replace your removed cookies with new dollops of dough and cycle until you’re out of it. When you need the cooling-plate again, put the “cooled” cookies in a moisture-tight container like a sealable cookie jar – or just a ziplock bag; doing so will ensure they stay soft.
8. Enjoy your home-made, American-recipe-derived cookies with the knowledge that your Constitutionally-protected, American-built S&W firearm(s) inhibits someone like Michael Bloomberg from telling you that you’re not supposed to eat them.
Sounds good. You forgot gun shaped cookie molds to piss off liberals as you hand them out in gun free zones (AR15 mold is bonus points).
Just get a Rift or Contego and be done with it.
I steer Texas? didn’t get that one, although I would like to delve into it further. Randy
Knife? Girl? ALWAYS the girl (G). That said if knife, then Spyderco. If you don’t want Spyderco and are willing to pay more attention to what you’re doing with a knife then this one:
http://www.crkt.com/Ripple-2-Folding-Pocket-Knife
I have one – almost as purty as the gal in the post. NOT!
Robert – come on, man! A cheap S&W liner lock? You own a knife blog, for crying our loud. You can do soooo much better. š
Don’t you mean S&W liner UN-lock? They do you know. Except when the liner spring wears down at the contact point and locks the blade open so tightly you have to pry the blade back with a screwdriver.
I’ve owned one S&W liner lock knife. It held an edge pretty well but everything else about it was a POS.
I love S&W guns, but I am dismayed at the cheap crappy knives they license. They could go with a quality big league manufacturer and have something that would add value to their brand rather than cheapen it like the current knives do.
I am a Smith & Wesson fanboy, but I refuse to carry a S&W knife
I’ll never cease to be amazed by gun guys who’ll spend a ton on a firearm but carry the cheapest, crappiest chinese knock-offs and insist that they’re great. Quit it.
+1
I like S&W, recently bought a M&P 9 pro for my father in law, it is a really nice pistol. I have an old model 10, and it still shoots fine. I wouldn’t be caught dead with a POS licensed S&W folding knife. For a few bucks more you can get a nice quality blade.
You get what you pay for, those S&W knives are barely a step up from those sold at gas stations and flea markets. I carry and use custom folders, some of which are worth more than my firearms, but there are plenty of high quality, US made knives at the $100 or less price point.
Buy and use a knife from Spyderco, Benchmade, Kershaw/ZT, or if you really want good ergonomics try something from Emerson knives.
Anything with “Swat” or the like on the blade is most likely garbage.
I have what in my pocket? A S&W knife?
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