Every serious gun owner should already have a primary gun safe in the home. A heavy, armored vault that will defeat determined, if not expert, thieves with a crowbar or cordless drill and the time to use them. In addition to safeguarding the rest of your collection, such a safe is where you keep the Big Gun, a shotgun or carbine of decisive firepower which is too big to keep handy next to your bed. These big safes are great, but . . .
Unless your bedroom is also your gun room (or your wife has very accommodating tastes in home decor) you’ll also need one or more secondary safes where you can securely stash a handgun for quick and convenient access when something goes ‘bump’ in the night.
An Inadequate Solution
More than three years ago I experienced that bump in the night (most likely from opportunistic thieves vigorously checking to see if my front door was locked) and I didn’t have that secondary safe. My pistol and shotgun were locked in the big safe in my closet, and I learned that it took a noisy eternity to find my keys and arm myself.
To fix that problem and cut fifteen awful seconds from my zero-dark-thirty response time, I went to Harbor Freight and spent about thirty bucks for the small and not-terribly-secure lockbox shown above. It would barely slow down a thief with a crowbar, but it would keep the kids (and more importantly their friends) from getting their hands on my home-defense hardware while I was downstairs.
It did its job, just barely: It kept my pistol handy at the bedside, but it was only large enough to hold a micro-9mm with no weapon light. Even worse, the electronic keypad beeped loudly. So much for surprise. That little lock-box was almost adequate for my needs, but when I upgraded my carry pistol to a compact double-stack 9mm I had to twist and maneuver it into and out of the little safe. So much for speed.
At least I still had ‘violence of action’ in my favor.
A Much Better Solution
The new Heavy Duty Handgun Safe from American Security is a vastly superior bedside gun safe, and also an excellent choice for bolting into the cab of your truck or the trunk of your car.
The hinged steel carrying handle makes it look like a Midcentury Modernist metal briefcase, right out of The Matrix. It may or may not be big enough to hold Agent Smith’s .50 Desert Eagle (sadly I do not own one to test this) but if you want to lug it around with you you’ll need to download all the muscles Dozer has from the Nebuchednezzar‘s computer.
This handgun vault/apocalypse briefcase weighs twenty-three pounds. Empty.
How’d They Manage That?
The bottom and sides of the vault are welded from 10-gauge steel which is just over 1/8″ thick. The door is an even beefier 3/16″ thick. The 5-button Simplex lock is housed completely inside the 10-gauge steel walls, and it can’t easily be punched by exterior drilling because it’s also housed within an internal steel security box.
The lid is attached to the box by a heavy-duty full length welded piano hinge, whose ends are protected by generous lips of steel shown here.
The lock and lid weigh nearly ten pounds, which would be monstrously difficult to lift without this gas piston assist. Just like the tailgate of your wife’s minivan, the gas piston makes the lid easy to open and keeps it there. That’s a good thing, because this thing could break all your fingers if it slammed shut on you.
This isn’t the only clever feature of this safe, but it’s one of the most important.
Lockwork
This safe uses a five-button Simplex mechanical lock. No keys or batteries are required, and there’s no tell-tale BEEP when you press the buttons. Once you’ve set the combination you want, it takes less than two seconds to press the buttons in sequence and turn the bolt knob counterclockwise.
And you will want to set the combination to something other than the factory setting. Every lock enthusiast out there already knows the factory preset combination by heart (look it up) and leaving it there is like setting your computer password to ‘password.’
The Simplex lock allows you to set any combination of key presses to open it. This procedure is pretty easy, but I was carefully advised to only attempt to set the combination with the door opened. Just in case I screwed up.
If you ignore this advice and lock yourself out, you can eventually discover the proper combination if you press each possible combination after the other. But this is going to take you a while, because there are 1082 possible combinations and you have to reset the tumblers between attempts.
Any number of keys can be pressed at the same time on a Simplex lock, and not all keys must be pressed at all. Each key can be pressed only once. This gives 1,082 possible combinations, which will take even a diligent and systematic thief quite a while to defeat numerically.
Because it’s a purely mechanical lock, the Simplex doesn’t keep track of failed combination attempts and can’t lock itself down if too many incorrect combinations are entered.
The Simplex lock throws this fairly massive bolt, which latches inside the the bent lip of the 10-gauge box steel. It’s further protected by the bent lip of the 3/16″ lid. If the bad guys defeat this safe it won’t be with a crowbar: it will be by a more cerebral method of numerical combination hacking.
The Simplex is a rugged and simple lock, but it doesn’t have enough possible combinations to resist a systematic combination attack for more than an hour or so. It won’t keep a determined thief out forever, but it will slow them down significantly while still locking securely and allowing immediate (silent) access for you. Remember that this is a secondary firearm safe, for keeping a pistol handy while you sleep. When you go to work, your bedside pistol should be on your hip or locked in the Big Safe.
Mounting
Even a torch-proof vault with a biometric lock isn’t secure if a thief can just carry it home with him. Even if he can’t break into it, the vault has failed its purpose because you won’t be seeing the contents again.
To keep this from happening to a small safe, you need to bolt it to something bulky, strong and heavy. This safe has four predrilled mounting holes in the bottom, which come plugged with plastic sliders.
If you’re temporarily using this safe in your car, you can also attach it to the car with a short, stout cable looped through a hardened eye-bolt or even the heavy-duty steel handle. These are less secure than bolting the safe to the floorboard of your car or trunk, but remember that it only needs to delay a smash-and-grab car prowler long enough that he’ll give up and move on to the next car.
Size
The safe has external dimensions of 10″x 12.5″ x 4.5″, with a little extra space for the bolt knob and the hinged handle. The interior measures about 9.5″ x 12″ x 2.25″ because the Simplex lock mechanism takes up almost 2″ of depth in the safe.
The lid of the safe is lined with sticky-backed open cell foam, which protects your gun from rubbing against the steel box that surrounds the lock. The floor of the safe has a 1″ thick open cell foam pad and another 1″ thick pad of pre-cut ‘pluck’ foam shown here. You can pluck the cubes out to make a fitted cradle for your handgun, and you’d definitely want to do this if you’re going to mount this safe in your car. For bedside use, you can just remove the pluck foam sheet and sandwich your gun between the lid and the bottom foam sheets.
The interior has plenty of space for nearly any practical handgun regardless of size or accessories. (S&W X-Frames and .50 Deagles need not apply.) It also has ample room for a tactical flashlight and a spare magazine, because you’ve paid attention to Clint Smith. You were paying attention to Clint Smith, right?
Summary
I didn’t try to test this safe to destruction, nor did I time myself through the tedium of trying every possible lock combination. If a burglar has the time and patience, they can eventually defeat a Simplex lock. But you probably won’t be leaving your carry gun in this safe when you’re out of the house anyway.
While you’re away, it’s an excellent idea to leave your bedside safe empty but locked. A burglar won’t know if it’s empty or full (not when it weighs 23 pounds, anyway) and they may think that a less-secure bedside safe is low-hanging fruit. This will hopefully lead them to simply cut it loose in hopes of opening it at home later, instead of scooping up your other valuables or attacking your main gun safe.
The American Security Heavy-Duty Handgun Safe is a very very sturdy secondary gun safe with a lot of good features. The vault is extremely solid, and the lock opens quickly and silently without the need for batteries or illumination.
Street price for the American Security Heavy Duty Handgun Safe is $200.
RATINGS (Out of five stars; highly subjective)
Strength * * * *
Nearly as thick as the steel on your main gun safe, with a well-protected hinge and few pry points.
Lock * * *
Strong and hard to punch, but a limited number of combinations means that a patient burglar could hack it while you’re at work.
Capacity * * * *
Big enough for any sensible handgun and those ‘dead of night’ extras you hope you’ll never need. On the large side for a bedside safe, yet still small enough to slide under the bed frame.
Fit And Finish * * * *
Very slick, smooth and finely put together. And perfect for Matrix cosplay, if that’s the way you roll.
Overall Rating * * * *
A great choice for a truck or bedside handgun vault, and comparable with other handgun safes in the $200 price range.
UPDATE: Click here for the review of American Security’s lighter EZ Carry Handgun Safe
“Every serious gun owner should already have a primary gun safe in the home. A heavy, armored vault that will defeat determined, if not expert, thieves with a crowbar or cordless drill and the time to use them.”
Two thoughts on this point.
One-apartment dwellers such as myself don’t have an option to use safes. First, you have to get the thing into the unit.Nothing says “steal me” to the neighbors better then wheeling in a huge box in broad daylight into your unit.
Second, it would be a progressive landlord who would let you drill holes and bolt the thing into his unit.Most every one I’ve dealt with prohibited detailed modifications to the structure like that. Which means anything which can be wheeled into a unit can be wheeled right back out, thus turning a safe from a security measure to a theif assistance device. Now your guns are in one, easy to steal box instead of several places.
I’ve resorted to keeping two of my three handguns stored in safety deposit boxes.The third is the only one I keep in the apartment, and loaded and on my person at all times.
Heavy duty chain around a couple of cinder or concrete blocks and your bed frame can slow a thief down a little bit. Yes, you can break the blocks and the bed frame, but that takes time and makes noise.
Just epoxy the safe to the floor. So what if some finish or concrete comes off when removing the safe. You didn’t need your deposit back, right?
I live in a 1 bedroom condo. When I bought my safe I wrapped the box in brown paper at the store and put picture cut out from a Walmart TV stand box on it and wheeled it in on a hand truck. The people I passed going to the elevator commiserated with “moving furniture sucking” and I remarked about Walmart furniture being cheap but all I could afford at the moment.
-D
Install a Stack-On Heavy Duty Pistol Box on one of the shelves in your closet. Screw it into the wall studs and run a couple of 1/4″ bolts into it from the bottom, through the closet shelf. The locks use the tubular “cylinder” keys. Your landlord is unlikely to be poking through your closets without a warrant, it won’t take up a huge amount of closet space, and you can take it with you when you move. Spackle will cover up the holes in the sheetrock and the closet shelves – a touch of the appropriate color paint and the landlord will never know it was there. (I speak form personal experience in a rental years ago.) You can even do this with one of their long-gun metal cases if your closet is deep enough. If the interior wall studs are not at the right spacing, screw 2 horizontal 1x4s or 2x4s to the wall first (at the same height as the anchor holes in the box), then screw the gun box into those.
Again, not a heavy-duty safe but a lot better than hiding the pistols under your mattress, and prying the box out will require a prybar, time and noise..
I own the nearly identical safe from fort knox and when I was in an apartment I kept it carriage bolted to a big heavy desk. Also remember a thief cant see how well it is secured so in a pinch two small wood screws might give the impression it is secured much better than it actually is without destroying the floor.
I’m in the same boat, and also several stories up, so full size safes aren’t a practical solution (especially since a lot of us apartment dwellers end up moving from apt to apt over the years due to rent increases).
I would suggest thinking of alternative solutions, such as hidden in plain site solutions. I won’t give away what I do, but there are books, online reading, etc on how to utilize things in the apartment (kitchen/bathroom cabinets, inside the wall behind medicine cabinets, etc) and modifying things you own (typically furniture) in order to create different methods of hiding just about anything. Long arms are trickier, but can be done. High school shop class drop outs need not apply, but anyone somewhat handy with tools can create some fairly unique solutions with a little imagination.
That beings said, I use a locksaf biometric safe for my HD & CCW pistols, with other weapons in places no one will find in a smash and grab scenario. The locksaf is about the same size as the safe in this review, both are probably top tier in this category of small safes. Given time, anything hidden can be found, and any safe can be accessed, so it’s about compromising and solving for probable scenarios. With these small safes, the important thing to remember is if you leave the home, the safe must be bolted to something, or empty and open, otherwise a thief can just pick it up, carry it out, and break into it later.
Also, if you don’t want to bolt a small safe down into an apartment floor (lag screws are an excellent option… if you have carpeting, it should cover the holes when you take it out), you can always bolt the small safe to something else that’s heavy, like a large piece of sheet metal (thick, heavy metal m/) that would then require a burglar to try and take the whole assembly with them if they don’t have the time to try and pry open/pick the safe. In the same regard, bolt the safe to a piece of wood the length of a closet wall, then bolt the wood to the wall studs (if the safe mounting holes aren’t spaced for studs, such as the locksaf).
Gotta love simplex locks. No batteries and they’re fast. Yes, simplex has relatively few combinations available and someone could brute force it after a fair amount of time, but it keeps honest people out and someone bent on getting in will eventually succeed just like any other safe. Of course, I don’t tend to like all that fru-fru electronic blinkenlighten stuff that takes batteries on firearms, safes, etc.
Another option I like for a relatively secure storage of 1-2 handguns is the V-Line Quick Vault “in the wall” lockbox (www.vlineind.com). It is made to secure between two wall studs on 16″ centers, and tucks away into the back of your closet in a fairly handy manner, where it is at least obscured by hanging clothes. I shove the clothes aside and open the box when I am home (no kids). Price is upwards of $200. It uses the same Simplex 5-button lock described above, which is easily opened in the dark once you have memorized the setting and practiced a bit. The lockbox inserts flush with the sheetrock, and fits in the depth of a 2×4 wall. it comes with one shelf, and can be installed upside down to allow the door to swing to the side you prefer. They also make one of these that will hold long guns.
Warning: If your interior closet walls have 2×4 studs on 24″ centers, your installation will involve fixing short (17″ max to fit diagonally through the cut opening) lengths of 2×4 to the inner sides of the studs, to give you a place to anchor the V-line – it took me three 2x4s on one side and two on the other inside the opening, each screwed into place individually, one into the prior one, with those gold-colored fast-twist deck screws. A short, handy 18v Lithium-Ion Makita drill was a definite plus. The whole process took me about three hours, including the search for the scrap 2x4s in my shop, going to the hardware store for the right length deck screws, and the loud cursing involved during the attempts to get the first 2x4s anchored inside the wall where I couldn’t see them. Have fun.
Without a better lock, the only use of this box really is to keep your gun away from children, and in that case the heavy duty construction is overkill. The decoy aspect is plausible as well, but in that case don’t bolt it down as you’d want them to snatch and grab, not be working on removing it and walk in on them.
A lot of the normal gun-store options seem to be able to open even by simply dropping them on the floor. Not something I’d expect from just a curious kid, but I’d still like something a bit more secure than that.
Everyone who has not yet done so should read this article: Unsafe Gun Safes Can Be Opened By A Three-Year Old (Forbes, 27 July 2012)
I do not know for certain whether or not the companies have improved the safes since then, but this was an eye-opening report for me.
I am currently in the market for a quick-access pistol safe, and this one reviewed here I will add to my list for consideration. The only other two safes currently on my list for consideration, FWIW, are:
Titan Gun Safe (the pistol vault) — http://www.titangunsafe.com/
Fort Knox (the auto pistol box) — https://www.ftknox.com/store/
The Fort Knox pistol box is of a similar design to the American Security handgun safe reviewed in the article above. The Titan one is a bit different, and more expensive, but perhaps better for transportation purposes (including in a vehicle).
New Simplex locks (those manufactured in 2013 or later) have been redesigned, and cannot be defeated by the magnetic attack which is depicted in several print articles and YouTube videos.
What is wrong with the Simplex lock? There is a video on YouTube of a guy demonstrating how easy it is to overcome standard key locks and barrel locks, and resetting electronic locks on various boxes with noting ore than a probe. Time to entry is usually under 30 seconds, with the right tool–which you have to assume your professional burglar has. Although the Simplex could eventually be “hacked,” it seems that it would take a lot longer than regular locks.
If my gun is on my hip during the day and right next to me on my bedside table at night, why do I need a safe for a “bump in the night?”
Do you have kids?
Yes, and they’ve been taught not to touch guns without my permission. They’re certainly not gonna sneak into my room at night to touch my gun.
Hopefully.
Many have tragic loss by not securing their guns. Even police officers have lost children due to their service guns; much more common than you think. Children are very curious and have low discipline. Do not fool yourself into thinking they will be safe by a lecture. They also have friends coming into your house. Be safe and well. One of these safes cost little for years of insurance. Not perfect, but they are fast to open and only accessed inside your home. Get a great alarm system and a safe that takes more that 5 minutes with a crowbar (most common tool used). Your family is worth the expense. Also, watch that video about poor safes. People that sell them are committing a crime, of sort.
That’s kind of my line of thinking too.
This.
People used to hang their firearms over their fireplaces. While I’m hardly going to hang my battle rifle in my living room for the world to see, I just don’t buy into this whole you-must-spend-a-bazillion-dollars-on-a-gun-safe thing.
Growing up, I knew where all of my dad’s guns were and I never went near them. Only the 1911 was in the house, and it was high up away on a closet shelf in its case. The long guns were stowed so well in the disaster we called the garage that any thief would have to clean the whole garage before finding them.
Same here. I do like the decoy aspect for when I’m gone though.
You’d be surprised what a “A heavy, armored vault that will defeat determined, if not expert, thieves with a crowbar or cordless drill and the time to use them.” costs and weighs and how few people actually buy them. You standard AMSEC BF series is gonna cost around $3000 plus Freight and weigh around 1000 pounds. You shiny paint Chinese imports and even American made “gun safes” that cost $500-$1500 and weigh under 500 lbs are a joke to a thief with time and tools.
Wish you guys would do a review of this: http://www.thegunbox.com/
Sure it’s a little pricey but I’m highly looking to pick it up (maybe 2).
Funny you should ask, as my neighbor got one for Christmas, and was having problems with it draining the battery in a week. Anecdotal, I know, but keep that in mind.
They’re supposed to use an AC adapter while stationary. I thought the battery was only for a backup?
I’ve thought about that safe, but IMO a safe that requires a battery simply has one more way that it can fail. I understand the appeal, but this is one area where I think that basic technology (a mechanical lock) is better than advanced technology (biometric locks, electric keypads, etc.).
Nice review, this seems like a nice alternative to the tinny toy-safe options for the bedside. If you need it truly secure, get a massive safe and bolt it to the floor. No small safe can match that level of security, its just the nature of the beast. This is to deter the “casual” intruder (like your kids or their friends, as mentioned). If someone breaks in and steals it, I’ll just report it stolen and replace it. I’m not worried about the replacement cost, just ease and speed of entry, and that it can deter everything up to an overly curious teen.
Just a thought, but in all of this, do not let the best be the enemy of the good…
Got that right. Based on many of the comments above, the only true way to REALLY secure your firearms is an underground, climate-controlled walk-in vault with 4-foot thick hardened-steel reinforced concrete on all sides, and a full bank vault door. It should probably be equipped as a bomb shelter, while you are at it.
Easily installed in any apartment for a reasonable price! /sarc off/
There’s another safe company, whose name I’m sorry escapes me, who builds a modular safe that you piece together. It’s basically the six panels of the box, which you assemble and connect from the inside. I don’t think you can bolt it to anything, but it’s supposed to be pretty heavy, once assembled. So it could be difficult to move without three or more thieves or eqiupment.
It’s marketed toward people in apartments or temporary housing, who can disassemble it and take it with them when they move. As I recall, it was a little expensive, though. Might take some time to find with google.
See TTAG review here:
http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2011/07/brett-solomon/gear-review-snapsafe-titan-safe/
“Every serious gun owner should already have a primary gun safe in the home.”
Don’t ‘should’ on me and I won’t ‘should’ on you. How did our forefathers survive without a gun safe back in the day?
They didn’t have a nanny state hanging over their head?
In some states, it’s not “should.” It’s “shall,” as in state statute requires guns to be locked up.
Honestly, my biggest fear as a gun owner is someone stealing them and using them to kill someone. Crime stats in my area indicate burglary is more likely than all “violent” crimes combined.
Last thing I want is to become one of the “statistics” that the hoplophobes use against us.
I appreciate the ‘don’t should on me and I won’t should on you’ reference, and I’m not issuing a legal command or a moral judgment. I’m just suggesting that it’s a really good idea to have one if you’re able to, for a long list of reasons.
If you have firearms worth any amount of money, whether individually or collectively, you may find that your homeowner’s insurance won’t cover their loss (regardless of cause — theft, fire, etc) if they are not stored in a safe. This is often also the case with high-value items like gold/silver, jewelry, monetary instruments, etc…
It’s hard to have all of your guns on you at any one time. When nobody is home, it’s nice to know that your firearms are locked up securely in the event of a break-in or other incident. I would not feel good about giving some criminal(s) easy access to the contents of my safe. An apartment I used to live in like 8 years ago got broken into and they would have found any firearms that I had casually stashed in the closets, under the bed, etc — it seemed to have been searched relatively thoroughly.
Can’t use ’em all at once, anyway. For those with kids, kids’ friends, or any sort of social life that involves people visiting your home, it’s nice to have firearms that aren’t on your person squared away somewhere secure.
That’s 3 of probably hundreds of reasons why, if you have valuable possessions, you should have a safe.
Not so much your well trained children you have to worry about. Numerous cases of playmates finding the house guns and playing with em. Lock em up. the weapons also!
Has anyone had Deviant Ollam review this yet?
Several states do have requirements for locked gun storage if I remember right. My bump in the night piece is at bedside, but all our children are grown. We have been debating safe upgrades, but haven’t got there yet. Thanks for the review – interesting little lock box.
I too have the less expensive small safes screwed to shelving, etc, it will slow down a thief a little bit but that’s about it. I do have an alarm on the house, though. So they’d have to break in with a burglar alarm blaring run through the house get to the safe unbolt/rip it out, flee with it – layered security may be imperfect but it helps.
I’ve been thinking about getting one of those tactical walls or whatever they are called. Maybe the book shelf that when it flips up it has a hidey hole of sorts.
Seeing as I don’t have kids in my house, and people who come over stay typically on the lower level. I have plenty of places to stash stuff. I still make a point to have them cased and locked in case of break in, except for my .45 which I decided was a good ideas to duct tape to the bottom of a book shelf, don’t know why I did that.
Cal DOJ compliant?
My response from the March 27, 2013 Ques. of the Day “Do you stash guns around the house” http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/03/robert-farago/question-of-the-day-do-you-have-guns-stashed-around-the-house/
——————————-
Disclaimer: This is not how I stash any of my belongings. Also, I don’t own any belongings.
If you get really imaginative, you can homebrew some pretty good stash spots around that house. They may not always stop the most determined thief, but will certainly reduce the chances of your stuff being found (by a thief).
For instance:
-A waterproof container in a toilet tank. Some might even look like part of the tank’s mechanism.
-An electrical outlet that’s actually a hidden compartment. I hear that a 4 plug outlet will cover a hole/box big enough for a full sized vintage item from 1911 (or even a 6 pulgger for a something that’s like the size of a couple of golf clubs, if you’re feeling ambitious and have deep walls).
A person who’s even moderately handy could, I imagine, have an old-style cell phone charging cord (minus the cell phone) permanently affixed* to the outlet such that it looks plugged in, but in reality will pull the cover right off with a good yank.
*Since it’s just the wall plate, not an actual outlet, it would probably be as simple as “plugging” the cord in and running a long machine screw through the prongs, anchoring it in place, I guess. No burglar is going to bother trying to steal one of these: http://s3.amazonaws.com/static.dicksondata.com/product_image-images/asjpg/r157-99.jpg
-It has also been rumored that an old, tube type TV set with a cracked screen in a storage area/basement is unlikely to draw any thief’s attention. These can be carefully opened up, gutted and ‘things’ can be stashed in them. Zip-tying** some weights (or even a bag of rocks) in there before resealing the back will make the TV extra heavy and therefore even less attractive to the would be robber.
**So that they don’t move around if the TV is shifted/lifted. That kind of sound/internal movement might make the burglar want to look inside.
Etc…
P.S. These solutions are useful even for the space limited apartment dweller.
And I just have to add this point about bedroom guns (NSFW language ahead):
If you’re in a fight for life, for goodness sake, use a f*cking rifle/shotgun. Seriously.
There’s no reason reason on earth NOT to have at least something like this in the bedroom: http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/maverick-youth-20-gauge-pump-action-shotgun/pid-679903?N=933739034+39632025
It’s not that bulky, you can slide it under the bed before going to sleep and lock it up again in the morning.
Pistols are good but they’re NOT the best firearm available to us. So don’t make one the only thing keeping a f*cking pack of degenerate monsters from slashing your throat after making you watch them gang rape your wife.
Dafuq, guys! F*ck f*cking convenience and ‘décor’. Do everything, not just something, to protect the people you’re supposed to protect.
Get a goddamned AK, AR or shotgun, LOAD it and sleep with it next to you.
disclaimer: these comments are general and are not necessarily directed to the author, individual comments or any specific person.
P.P.S. Chris, great choice on the P95. It’s my fave 9mm that I own.
California DOJ compliant?
Yes!
A nice made in America safe that can be easily installed is by ZanottiArmor.com, great quality.
I’ve shopped around a lot for a good biometric gunsafe and the best one that I’ve found is The GunBox Biometric + RF gun safe. Not only can I program all 10 of my fingerprints but I can program my husband’s as well. Heck, I could program my toes if I wanted to. It holds about 200 fingerprints. It also comes with a RFID label and wristband. They also offer some sweet RFID rings as well. It holds my gun plus a magazine. I’ve even seen pictures of people that can fit 2 smaller guns in it. You can bolt it down, upside down to a wall etc. You have access to your guns in about 3 seconds. This gun safe exceeded my expectations and blows GunVault out of the water. Gunvault is cheap and feels like those till boxes they use in retail. Their videos are impressive too. They have videos where the GunBox is put through a “torture test” not only by the company but by other companies as well. These gun safes are not only child proof but have an alarm so if it is moved it will go off (sounds like a fire alarm).
each of us should have a secure gun safes to minimize unnecessary risks.
I was given this safe from a friend and would like to change the code but can’t find out how. Would you please let me know? Thanks!
1082
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