The Crosman 1377 / PC77 for this review was provided by Pyramyd Air.
Crosman’s 1377 ‘American Classic’ lives up to its name. This air gun really is a classic and it probably defines the upper limit of how much shooting fun you can have for $140. I shot this one until my hands were raw and covered with lead residue, and most of the few ‘issues’ I could discover were so tiny they could be cured with a scrap of emery paper and a sliver of plastic shim. The gun itself is only $55; the balance of this frugal but worthwhile investment provides you a cherry-picked and chrony-tested gun from Pyramyd Air, a shoulder stock and enough pellets to last you for years of casual weekend shooting . . .
History: Then
The Crosman 1377 is, as its name suggests, a .177 caliber airgun. It’s a single shot, multiple-pump pneumatic with a hand-pumped piston beneath the barrel. They have fallen from the cutting edge of airgun technology, but back before the days of 1,000 fps spring-piston airguns, multi-pump pneumatics like the Daisy 880 Powerline, Crosman 760 Pumpmaster and various Benjamin rifles absolutely ruled the back pages of Boys Life magazine.
I had a Daisy 880 as a boy, and all my friends had Crosman 760s, and we were each convinced that ours was the best. It was, in retrospect, our seventh-grade version of the AK vs. AR fanboy feud. None of us knew that the 1377, a mere air pistol, could launch its pellets just as fast as the 760, and nearly as fast as a pumped-up 880. If we had, we all would have wanted them.
The 1377 was introduced in 1977 (which may have contributed to its nomenclature) in a very slightly different configuration. A college buddy had one of the early models back in the mid-1980s, and we spent hours covertly sniping at rats and birds and tin cans on the hillside behind our fraternity house. Brother Takeshita (no relation to the former Japanese prime minister) had an early 1377 with tip-off .22 scope mounts dovetailed into the top of the breech, a sliding chamber cover, and a cocking piece at the rear of the receiver.
It had unfortunately been turned into a air-powered musket by years of shooting steel BBs through its once-rifled barrel, and landing a hit on a soup can past fifteen or twenty feet was purely a game of chance. I inherited it when Brother Takeshita graduated, and I passed it down to an underclassman in turn. Maybe that old 1377 is still randomly spitting BBs out the back windows of an Ohio fraternity house, but I doubt it. And I digress.
History: Now
Pyramyd Airgun Mall provided us with a modern-production 1377 pistol, a removable shoulder stock, three tins of pellets and a tiny tube of airgun lube/seal protectant. Pyramyd also checked out the gun (a modestly-priced option with any Pyramyd purchase) and provided a signed chronograph printout verifying that this 1377 does indeed produce the advertised 600 fps with lightweight 7.1 grain .177 pellets.
600 fps might taste like small beer compared to the 1100+fps produced by the most powerful spring-piston air rifles (it’s barely 1/4 the energy of a hot modern springer) but it ranks the 1377 comfortably among decent pump-pneumatic air rifles, and one of the fastest air pistols ever sold. Remember that black-powder .44-40 loads barely crack 700 fps, and you’ll see that 600 fps is pretty impressive ROI for spending twenty or thirty seconds pumping the lever under the barrel.
Pneumatics like the 1377 don’t have as much horsepower as spring-piston air guns, but they’re actually better in some other ways. They have no perceptible recoil impulse, they’re quieter, they can be astonishingly accurate, and they don’t instantly destroy rifle scopes like springers do.
This photo shows all of the modern 1377’s operating controls. The brass bolt opens the breech to insert a single pellet, and it also cocks the release valve for firing. This procedure is much improved from the first 1377s, which required two different motions on two different controls to load and cock the gun.
The crossbolt safety behind the trigger is about the only mechanical firearm safety that I actually use, because it feels good to have an extra layer of precaution against accidentally tripping the trigger while I’m pumping up the gun inside my garage. It’s impossible to have absolute muzzle safety while shooting indoors, where a stray pellet would (at best) put a bothersome hole or dent in something I don’t want to throw away yet.
Pyramyd recommends storing the 1377 (and most multi-stroke pneumatic airguns) uncocked, with one pump in the pressure chamber. Having a puff of mildly-pressurized air in the gun keeps the seals tight, and keeps dust and moisture from contaminating the pressure chamber and valve. I didn’t know this until recently, but I’ve been storing the 1377 in a very clean and dehumidified gun safe. I don’t particularly care if some burglar nicks a $60 airgun (I’m heavily insured, and he’d find this funky-looking airgun useless as a crime tool anyway) but all firearms and airguns must be secured out of the reach of children and their friends.
Sights
The 1377 has a post front sight and a reversible aperture and notch rear which is adjustable for both elevation and windage. The notch rear is properly sized for aiming at arms’ length as a pistol, and the aperture is sized for use with the shoulder stock attached. I expected to be completely off the paper when I switched from notch to aperture, but both of them hit–amazingly–to the same point of impact when they were fully lowered in the sight base. By lucky coincidence, they were both perfectly regulated for a six o’clock hold on a one-inch target circle at eight yards, which happened to be exactly my target setup.
The rear aperture is small enough to be completely useless in pistol configuration, but the notch rear provided surprisingly good (for me) accuracy as both a pistol and a rifle. It was well within ‘minute of Norway rat’ accuracy, probably out to a good 25 yards.
The 1377 has a sighting radius of just over 12.5 inches, which is only about two inches shorter than the sight radius of an AK-47. Nobody has ever criticized AKs for having overly precise iron sights, but since you’ll never shoot an air pistol at 100 yards I think the Crosman 1377 does pretty well in the sighting department.
You’ll probably get amazing accuracy from it (keep reading) but our test gun’s sights were a slightly loose fit on the top of the breech. There are no click adjustments, and tweaking the sights just the right amount isn’t terribly easy or repeatable. Tightening the windage screw would also rotate the sights slightly clockwise, which shifted the point of impact slightly to the left. I compensated for this by always twisting the rear sights gently clockwise before firing, so they would always be in the same position even though slightly crooked. This is a trick I learned from an old Korean re-import M1 Garand with a worn-out rear sight, and it works.
Frustratingly, the 1377’s rear sighs require two different screwdrivers to adjust them. A standard Leatherman slotted screwdriver will suffice for windage adjustments, but you’ll need a tiny (preferably magnetized) Phillips head for any elevation adjustments. Be very careful not to lose that tiny elevation adjustment screw when you switch the notch sights to aperture.
Trigger
The 1377’s unadorned steel trigger has a weight of 4.5 pounds. This may seem a bit light for a pistol and slightly heavy for a rifle, but the trigger on our test gun was simply outstanding. It broke cleanly and consistently, with no creep and almost no overtravel, and feels like the best hunting-rifle trigger you’ve ever shot.
Accuracy
I knew that accuracy testing for this gun was going to require a lot of shooting, because there are so many variables to play with. Which pellets would be the most accurate? How many pumps produced the best accuracy? Which sights would be the most precise and usable? I tested almost every combination of pellet, power, stocks and sighting equipment. In the interest of finishing this test in my lifetime, I only tested for accuracy at 5, 8 and 10 pumps, instead of testing every pump from 1 to 10.
The photo at the top of the article only gives a hint of the accuracy the 1377 can deliver. It shows the first handful of targets I shot with this unfamiliar gun, firing it offhand in pistol configuration with notch sights at 8 yards. I was hitting high, before adopting a six o’clock hold, and a bit left of POA because I hadn’t adjusted the sights yet. The gun was not quite ‘unfired’ since Pyramyd had tested it, but it certainly wasn’t broken in.
So I got to work. Luckily the ammo was cheap and the shooting range was open 24/7, so I got to shoot this gun a lot to find the answers. My first pistol groups averaged exactly 1.0″ at 8 yards. This would be exceptional accuracy from almost any cartridge handgun, but things tightened up even further when I attached the shoulder stock.
This photo shows three consecutive three-shot groups, fired offhand (supported against a doorframe) with the shoulder stock and aperture sights at eight yards. Each was fired with a different style or weight of pellet, and on the outer two targets I didn’t even pump the gun the same number of strokes for each shot. These groups weren’t outliers, although this was one of the smallest groups from the 7.9 grain hollowpoints.
Accuracy was outstanding, and firmly believe that the limiting factor was my own eyesight. I may never know, since the 1377 lacks any organic means of attaching a scope. Clamp-on .22 scope bases (which attach to the barrel) are a simple $15 aftermarket, but adding a worthwhile scope to a 1377 will more than double its price. If you’re willing to spend $150 for scoped air-rifle accuracy, it’s probably smarter to buy a scoped air rifle with a dedicated airgun scope.
Here are the accuracy details:
- Adding the pistol grip cut my average group size from 1.0″ down to 0.65″ while still using the notch rear sight.
- This 1377 seems happiest with 8 pumps instead of 5 or 10, but the gain is almost insignificant. Perhaps it’s just the shooter who’s more accurate, for not having to pump the gun two extra times between shots.
- In two of my smallest groups, I accidentally pumped the gun once to 9 pumps and once to 10 pumps, instead of 8. The gun obviously didn’t care.
- Switching from the notch rear sight to the aperture cut my group sizes in half again with the most accurate pellets.
- The most accurate pellets were the Kodiak Match pellets, which advertise 10.65 grains but which I weighed out at 10.7 grains. At 8 yards with 8 pumps, they averaged 0.275″.
- Crosman’s nominally 10.5 grain Super Magnums also measured 10.7 grains on my powder measure, and they were only marginally less accurate than the Kodiak Match pellets. At 8 yards with 8 pumps, the Super Magnums averaged 0.35″.
- Lightweight Crosman hollowpoint pellets weighed 7.9 grains, and were the least accurate of the three. At 8 yards with 8 pumps they averaged 0.46″, although they did give me one freakish and unrepeatable 0.00″ one-hole group.
- I found myself wishing that the rear aperture was just slightly larger. It was small enough to start to bring the front sight into pinhole focus, but this also really dims your view of the target. I was shooting in the marginal light of my garage, so I had to leave a tactical flashlight downrange illuminating the target to make up for this.
If you’re a skilled shooter with acute eyesight, you can probably shoot better than *I* can, but I think only a seasoned competitor could shoot better than this airgun can.
Ergonomics
The 1377 has excellent shooting ergonomics: the trigger is short and crisp, the grips and stock are both comfortable enough, and the gun is muzzle-heavy enough to hang firmly on target without being a boat anchor. As a pistol it weighs 30.5 ounces, and with the shoulder stock attached it weighs no more than a loaded all-steel Government Model 1911. Alle ist anz gut, so far.
But this is a multi-stroke pneumatic, and you’ll spend more time pumping it than you will aiming and working the trigger. This pumping requires moderate effort, which isn’t made any easier by the shape of the fore-end/pump lever. You can’t wrap your fingers around it (or you’ll crunch them) and you don’t want to wrap them around the barrel for added leverage, because you can see the barrel flex slightly if you do and this can’t be good for accuracy.
Your non-pumping hand has to do a lot of work holding the gun in place, and the shape of the pistol grip has some sharp edges that start to leave a mark after thirty to fifty rounds. After about 100 rounds it starts to become a minor welt. These will (mostly) disappear after a minor fluff and buff with fine-grit emery cloth.
The buttstock also has a tiny bit of up-down wiggle room, which is mildly annoying but has no effect on function or accuracy. A scrap of folded tape or paper inside the frame cavity of the buttstock is an effective field repair for this.
Hunting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVgmQov_fGQ
Check out the homemade shoulder stock on this kid’s 1377. Talk about Bubba gunsmithing. He should have coughed up $30 for the real thing, but either way the 1377’s accuracy and power open up all kinds of possibilities for pest control and small-game hunting. With the 7.1 grain pellet that produces a factory-confirmed 600 fps, the 1377 will dump 6 lb-ft. at the muzzle and 5 lb-ft. out to 10 yards. At 20 yards it’s still delivering 4 lb-ft., and past that you probably won’t be able to score a perfect hit on anything small enough to hunt with any air pistol. Heavier pellets, like the 10.7 grain Kodiak Match slugs, start with 5 lb-ft. but keep that energy out to 15 yards.
Bob Beeman opined years ago that it takes 2 lb-ft. of energy to cleanly kill a mouse or sparrow, 3 lb-ft. to take a squirrel, starling or pigeon, and 5 lb-ft. to kill a cottontail. With the accuracy to literally drive thumbtacks out to 10 yards, the Crosman 1377 has enough grunt to turn Bugs Bunny into hasenpfeffer out to nearly 50 feet if you can make a perfect shot. (This assumes that you’ve got plenty of black pepper and that Bugs is a cottontail: jackrabbits need 8 lb-ft., which this gun cannot produce at all.)
This also assumes that it’s legal in your jurisdiction. Some states make a distinction between air rifles and air pistols when it comes to hunting regulations. Although it’s not legal advice, I can’t see any difference between a shoulder-stocked 1377 generating 600 fps and a shoulder-stocked 760 Pumpmaster generating slightly less. My own state allows air guns only for the hunting of ‘unclassified game,’ basically really small pests like mice, european rabbits, most ground squirrels, rats, moles, nutria and skunks. If you’d ever want to eat it, you can’t hunt it with an air gun in Washington. But a real discussion of hunting laws is way outside the scope of this review, so I’ll get back to talking about the 1377.
Pimp Your Ride?
The 1377’s basic pneumatic engine is rather overbuilt for the velocities the gun is tuned to produce from the factory. With a few aftermarket mods (and a whole lot of extra pumping between shots) the 1377 platform can break 700 fps with normal-weight .177 pellets. This leaves a lot of room for improving on the 1377’s already-respectable performance. Click here for a huge gallery of heavily-customized 1377s; many of them are no longer pistols, and many of them no longer even recognizable as having once been 1377s.
The DIY crowd has jumped on the 1377 bandwagon big-time, and various airgun fora are abuzz with discussions of narrowing the pellet probe, adding longer barrels, enlarging the transfer hole, stiffening the hammer spring, and replacing the plastic breech with a metal unit. All of these modifications will boost velocity, at a price. The first 50 extra fps are pretty cheap, but after that the performance gains get more and more difficult and costly.
A massively tricked-out 1377 might even crack 800 fps, but it will have a rifle-length barrel and more aftermarket parts than stock ones. It will look more bizarre than David McCallum’s P-38 thingie from The Man From U.N.C.L.E and it will cost many times the 1377’s original purchase price, so proceed at your own risk. As I said above, if you want to spend hundreds of dollars on a medium-powered air rifle, there are certainly wiser ways to do it than going West Coast Choppers on your $60 air pistol. If you’re doing it for the love of tinkering, good on you. Just don’t do it for the performance of the final product.
Conclusion
If it does nothing else for you, a quiet and accurate air gun gives you the ability to shoot in your garage or basement with no risk of police intervention, lead contamination or hearing loss. Can’t find any .22s? Shoot your airgun. Favorite shooting quarry snowed in? Go to the basement and shoot your airgun. Can’t afford to replace your last 100 rounds of 5.56? Shoot your airgun.
A single-shot airgun like the Crosman 1377 won’t help you much in maintaining combat proficiency with your defensive firearms, although Dan and Nick and RF are playing with airguns that do, but trigger time is still trigger time. Airgun practice, even with a single-shot, can keep your target-shooting skills tuned up. It’s also good cheap fun; pellets can be bought in quantity for just over a penny a shot, and air is still free.
The 1377 is a moderately powerful airgun (quite powerful for an air pistol) with exceptional short-range accuracy. The gun itself costs less than a single day at the range with a few boxes of factory .30-06, and the whole package we got from Pyramyd could keep you shooting for years. If the Great .22 Rimfire Shortage keeps going much longer, I think a lot of people will come back to airguns as their plinking range toys of choice.
Specifications:
Type: Mult-pump pneumatic air pistol
Capacity: Single-shot
Caliber: .177 (.22 also available as the Crosman 1322)
Barrel length: 10.25″
Velocity: 480 to 600 fps, depending on pellet weight
Trigger: single-stage, 4.5 lbs
Overall length: 14″ (pistol) 26″ (carbine)
Weight: 30.5 oz. (pistol) 42.1 oz. (carbine)
Street price: $60
Ratings (out of five stars):
This is my first airgun review, and one of TTAG’s first, so we don’t really have anything to compare it to. If I were to compare apples to oranges and judge the the Crosman 1377 as though it were a .22 rimfire target/small-game hunting pistol I’d have to say it’s outrageously heavy and incredibly anaemic, with an absolutely pitiful rate of fire. But of course it’s not a .22 rimfire pistol, because it’s an air pistol that only costs about a fifth the price of any decent .22 rimfire pistol.
Accuracy: * * * * *
Phenomenal by cartridge handgun standards: even its least-favorite pellets will group inside a single ragged .45 ACP bullet hole at 8 yards. Its most accurate pellets will group inside a ragged 7mm bullet hole. Some dedicated target air pistols are capable of more better accuracy than this, but I’m not and neither are you. Until I see one of us shoot another air pistol with better precision, I’m giving the 1377 the full complement.
Handling: * * * */ * *
This is kinda hard to judge. Shooting ergonomics are quite good, but it takes effort to pump because the short handle gives you so little leverage. Firing a hundred shots will take 800 to 1000 pumps, and this will wear out your arms and beat up your hands. So it’s four stars for shooting ergos, two stars for pumping comfort.
Reliability * * * *
Utterly perfect, although I only shot perhaps a hundred-odd pellets. Everything goes a slower pace with a multiple-pump pneumatic, and if Brother Takeshita’s old 1377 is any guide this one will be happily shooting for many many years. The seals and gaskets might have to be replaced in five or ten years, which I don’t consider a major liability.
Customization * * * * *
It’s nearly limitless for this airgun. You can replace everything but the frame, and end up with a 700 fps .22 caliber air rifle if you want to throw enough money into it.
This test gun was provided by Pyramyd Air; vendor’s link here.
We hunted with a benjamin pump rifle as a kid. I believe it was a .20 caliber, tho I could be wrong on that. It had an old scope we scrounged up for it and it was deadly against small game at modest ranges. In my experience our rangwes did not increase over much as we moved into cartridge firearms. Most hunting shots are taken at fairly close ranges, regardless of type of weapon.
I have a good springer rifle, .177. It would be nice to have a decent .177 pistol as well.
Air is great for youths, beginners, or training…no doubts about that.
But as an adult, I rather man up and have fun with a silenced 22LR.
I’ll tell ya though, those pellets are a lot more cost effective for plinking…
And BBs even more so.
Also very compact, which is a good trait for something that might go into the BOB.
I’ve been messing with air guns for years, and believe me, if you can spend a bit more on a spring or single stroke pneumatic, you’ll be glad you did. They are inherently more consistent in velocity, typically have better triggers, and allow for quicker repeat shots. Most importantly, if, due to age or size your upper body strength is limited, pump up guns like the Crosman will leave your hands trembling so badly after five or six shots that accuracy takes a real nosedive.
Ah but a pump gun is EXCELLENT for teaching a young shooter some trigger control because you either slow down/calm down and get it right, or spend another 10 pumps to try again . -evil grin-
Very good review, thank you. I’ve never owned an airgun, but have been wondering about it lately and your article answered many questions of mine on the topic Keep up the good work!
I have a 1377 in my gun safe right next to all of my expensive “grown up” guns. It’s one of my favorite toys to play with on a quiet afternoon when I don’t have the money or the time to go to the range and burn up ammo.
it’s a good thing you can drill the rear aperture to a large size with very little effect 🙂
Also, as a kid, I managed to make a pringle can silencer for my 1377
I drilled out the rear sight using a 5/32 bit and can quickly hit a 3×3 target at 25 yds almost every time. This using a modes trigger where I removed and simply squeezed down the spring in the grip, that shortened and lightened the pull by more than half and made it crisper.
I bought one of these a couple of years ago with the intent to use it to develop better handgun skills and to teach my young daughters proper weapon handling.
It is a great, inexpensive airgun that is a lot of fun to shoot. For the money, you can’t do any better.
I bought my Gamo Varmit Hunter a few years and have not been disappointed. My biggest gripe is that it is LOUD. I sometimes worry that my neighbors will complain (non have as of yet. It is also fantastic for eliminating varmits, especially in the case aforementioned…
Would you mind reviewing the IZH-61? I am interested in one but am not sure due to it being a “springer”, but then again it has a 5 shot magazine and a reputation for accuracy. Everyone says it is accurate but I am afraid that I would have to hold it differently (artillery hold) to get good accuracy out of it.This is worrysome due to me wanting one as a training analog for the smallbore competition rifle I borrow.
They aren’t that expensive (100 USD) and you can get a drop in gas-piston for 45 USD.
The IZH-61 has a unique look about it, like an airsoft Blaser Tactical straight-pull. it’s a sidelever that produces only 450 fps, which is fine for punching holes in paper but insufficient for hunting edible game. It does come with target-ready diopter sights, however.
For small game like pigeons and squirrels they could be “good enough” if you get a headshot. But I dont really care about that aspect. I care more about cheap training time, and being able to train whenever and wherever I want. Diopter sights and 5 shot capacity are especially important so I dont break position to reload.
I too have heard stories of accurate shooting with the IZH so I bought one and couldn’t sell it fast enough. I got very poor accuracy and the operation of the mechanism was rough and gritty and just felt crude and unpleasant. The recoil was considerable and accuracy disappointing. Now no doubt much of the accuracy issue was due to my tying to shoot it like a firearm with a firm hold but the recoil was such that it felt like it would jump out of my hands if I didn’t hold tightly. For a target practice gun you’d do much better with the Daisy 953 single pump pneumatic. There is no recoil, it takes a 5 shot magazine, the receiver is grooved for mounting a scope and mine easily groups 5 Daisy pellets under 1/4″ at 33 feet with a cheap little Daisy brand scope.
With regards to spring piston recoil, it is good to understand the inner mechanics of the piston and with practice your accuracy will get as good as you can shoot any gun, whether it is gas, spring or air powered or a firearm.
There is a forward recoil action as the spring pushes the air forward and a backwards recoil after it dishcharges.
I learned to handle spring piston rifle recoil with a Chinese B6C .177cal. Side lever air rifle which has the strongest recoil I’ve felt, even more than my trusty crosman phantom .22 cal. Air rifle…
Basically over time and firing hundreds of pellets I think my body learned and anticipates the recoil and now I can hit where I am aiming.
All spring piston air rifles and pistols need to be broken in, just like other mechanical devices, like car engines etc…a few hundred shots and some lubrication in the air transfer port should aid in breaking in your spring piston air rifle.
I think you didn’t give your Baikal m61 a chance to break in before you sold it and I bet whoever bought it is absolutely impressed with how much fun it is to shoot that air rifle.
When I was 11 I got the rifle version of this gun in .22 called “The Backpacker” if I remember correctly. put thousands of rounds through it, always loved it, my eyes don’t see the sights that well anymore though. Recently I pulled it out of the back of the closet & have been fiddling with it & old paintball gun valves, looking to turn it into a pcp rifle.
During HS a friend of mine had this model (purchased I believe in 1977 or 1978) and it shattered many breakable objects that he should not have shot at, just saying.
I’m on my third modified 1377, they are great fun. How come you aren’t mentioning the amazing PCP air guns? That’s a really hot category and the higher end rifles and pistols give nothing up to powder burners….
“Give up nothing to power burners”? What on earth are you talking about? They give up EVERYTHING to powder burning firearms. Colorado game laws set a minimum energy requirement for big game hunting as 1,000 ft.lb. at 100 yards. The high power pre-charged pneumatic air rifles hardly produce half of that at the muzzle and the power decreases with each shot fired and they need a scuba tank to refill. The 1894 Winchester 30/30 can rattle off seven shots in three seconds, each of which carries 1800+ ft.lb. and at 2200+ fps they shoot flat enough to hold point of aim out past 200 yards and a 20 round box of ammo fits in a hip pocket. Then there is the fact that I can buy a brand new 30/06 rifle with scope for under $300 or buy three of them for the price of one big bore PCP rifle. Now just what is it you think high power air rifles don’t give up to powder burners.
I have an older model 1377 that I have owned for about 6 yrs. Its versitile, and i fire a mix of rounds from Crosman Pellets, copperhead BBs and 1 & 1/4″ long Marksman airgun bolts. It works very well all around. The fins on the airgun bolts ride the grooved barrel of the 1377 and give the bolt a stable spin adding to accuracy. all around I’d say the 1377 is a good target gun for plinking and taking care of pests!
Im the kid in the video! i was 12 years old back then but i can confirm rabbit kills with that gun up to 15 yards or so. I still have it after at least 5 years of owning it and its still works fine great gun!
last week I bought crosman 1377, but I’m shoot a bullet cannot out (10 pumps)
please introduce to me thank you
I’ve no doubt you know a thing or two about airguns but your comment on black powder ballistics, “a black powder 44/40 barely cracks 700 fps” shows a woeful ignorance of the subject. In fact, a black powder 44/40 runs between 900 and 1,000 fps from a revolver and tops 1,200 fps from a rifle. Of course it is doing that with a 200 grain bullet so energies run from 360 to 640 ft.lb. Chronograph testing will show that the Crosman 1377 doesn’t actually achieve 600 fps but if it did with a 7.5 grain pellet the energy would be only 8.3 ft.lb. In fact, the so-called Big Bore High Power air rifles can’t touch the old BP 44/40 carbine.
HOWDY i bought 1377 its great i can take out fox at 35 yards with 1377 and a stock.
If you wanna be sharpshooter buy the STOCK and pumping its easyer…;)
I installed a Crosman 177 Caliber Steel Breech Kit (CRS-AC-024), and a Crosman Custom Shoulder Stock 1399 (CRS-AC-005) on my 1377, then I picked up a Daisy PowerLine 3 – 9 X 32 Scope (Model 812) to mount on it. This thing seriously shoots 3 pellet groups measuring 1.5″ at 47 yards. That group was shot with Gamo Raptor PBA pellets. The next best group I got measured 2.25″ at the same 47 yards. That was with the Crosman .177 Hollow Point 7.9gr Premier Pellets (500ct). And my 3rd best grouping at that distance was 1.75″ with Crosman .177 Pointed pellet. Funny thing is I got tighter groups with this 1377 than I did with my Umarex Octane (1450 fps) nitro gas piston rifle the same distance. I wish this site would allow me to post the actual targets. Overall, I strongly sugest anyone looking for an air gun to consider the Crosman Model 1377.
I installed a Crosman 177 Caliber Steel Breech Kit (CRS-AC-024), and a Crosman Custom Shoulder Stock 1399 (CRS-AC-005) on my 1377, then I picked up a Daisy PowerLine 3 – 9 X 32 Scope (Model 812) from Wal Mart to mount on it. This thing seriously shoots 3 pellet groups measuring 1.25″ at 47 yards. That group was shot with Gamo Raptor PBA pellets. The next best group I got measured 1.5″ at the same 47 yards. That was with the Crosman .177 Hollow Point 7.9gr Premier Pellets (500ct). And my 3rd best grouping at that distance was 1.75″ with Crosman .177 Pointed pellet. Funny thing is I got tighter groups with this 1377 than I did with my Umarex Octane (1450 fps) nitro gas piston rifle the same distance. I wish this site would allow me to post the actual targets. Overall, I strongly sugest anyone looking for an air gun to consider the Crosman Model 1377.
Can someone tell me ?
I just bought my American Classic 1377 .177 and I love it as so far.
But can some one tell me what the one screw is on my model,on the right side just over the trigger guard that has the letters YFS
Thanks All
~A
A Pena im pretty sure that is one of the screws for removing the cover on the trigger mechanism. The others can be accessed by removing the grips.
What fraternity were you in in Ohio? I am at Ohio State and am a Delta Theta Sigma brother 🙂
Hi i am kavin, its my first occasion to commenting anywhere, when i read this paragraph
i thought i could also create comment due to this good article.
Good Air pistol for your money & I realise many people have a small budget. Believe buyers should save there money & put it towards a Webley Tempest air Pistol. They are very impressive in every way So I would recommend invest in one they look & feel like a real pistol rather then a toy. Plastic on guns never looks good but some manufacturers have blended good Quility plastic with there metal parts at times it’s hard to tell its plastic. Also brown plastic looks like dogs turds, Black Plastic will always look better on a Gun.
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As far as other mods like flat top pistons and such..not worth it. Who wants to pump a pistol 20 times to an increase of only 30 fps? It’s not about the speed, it’s all about how well you shoot.
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I also have a couple 1377’s, and love them both. Mounted a 2X Crosman pistol scope on one and installed a Tasco Stoney Point style target turret that matched the scopes threads perfectly. Excellent setup for long-range shooting. I also painted a white box halfway down the front sight of the other one, which allows me to calculate a 3-unit MOA (or mil) long-range shooting system relative to sight radius. I’ve used this setup to shoot to 80 yds. many times now with more first shot connections even to this range than one might expect.
wow what a nice gun! is it available allover the world?
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