Gun Review: JP Rifles AR (First-Timer AR-15 Build Using JP Enterprises Parts)

1. That was a lot of money for a first build. I did my first build under $1000, and that’s including all the left hand parts I need.

   • My first build started out at under $1k…and then I started tinkering. A couple years later and I could have bought a Wilson combat 1911 by now.

     • Very pretty…but $2K-$4K?

       My first build was $459 start to finish.

       Hits the target every time. Past 200 yards? Dunno. Don’t really care.

       Enjoy the fab rifle you built!

       • The goal here was 2-3 inch groups at 600 yards.

   • It just depends what you want in a rifle. These rifles shoot 1/4 to 3/4 MOA. Some folks may not care about that.

   • Not only was it a lot of money but it was too freaking long. LESS PR and more just on building it.

2. I’m on my 3rd AR build (after 2 AK builds, which are much more intense). First was a “cheapest parts I can get” 16″ build, with no-name parts crudely thrown together in a relatively lightweight rifle. Carbine gas system, M4 barrel, M16 bolt from AIM Surplus, TN Arms lower and a New Frontier Polymer FCG. Of the parts, the accuracy from the barrel was meh, but the TN Arms hybrid lower and NF Polymer FCG were quite good. Great trigger pull, very little grit and a short reset. It just didn’t like steel russian ammo, as it didn’t have enough mass to set off the hard primers. My second build was a Colt 633 DOE 9mm “replica” pistol build. Once I adjusted the ejector, that functions very well. My current build is a 20″ “SPR” build, with an ELF trigger (in another TN Arms lower- I like them), and a Palmetto State BCG. The PSA BCG looked so terrible, and felt so gritty, I swapped it with the BCG from my first build, from AIM- Much better. Threw a 3-9×33 Leupold VX-2 I had lying around on top, and a bipod on a Aero Precision Enhanced Upper with a 15″ rail. Shoots like a dream. Starting to like ARs again.

   • Its kind of addicting, isn’t it?

3. Nice review! I wouldn’t have a safety that was that unreliable, especially for a ‘tactical’ gun. Way too many alternatives that work out of the box.

   • Eric, to be clear, the trigger is not “unreliable.” It is adjustable, And you can certainly adjust it so that it no longer works correctly. Which is what I did. But that’s on me. And yes, you are correct that a modular trigger will likely be less “idiot-proof.” But it is also less adjustable. Kinda just depends on what you want. I’m certainly not suggesting that this kind of trigger is the right solution for every shooter.

4. Very nice.

   I understand doing a first build this way for a review article, but it’s not how I’d recommend a newbie do a first build.

   Rather, the course I would suggest is to start with good-quality but standard components. That would avoid all the “fun” Joe had with the trigger and safety, while providing an inexpensive hands-on learning experiences of how it all normally works together. Then, if you want to later on when you know how it’s all supposed to work, add the higher-end stuff. The cost differential is minimal but the learning and probability of initial success are both greatly enhanced.

   I speak from considerable “life experiences” on this one…

   • I tend to agree with you. I knew going into this project that I was likely going to have to do some tinkering. And that’s OK for me – my goal was to see if I could be successful at it despite not being a gunsmith or experienced machinist, etc. .

5. Joe, those are some nice photos of your rifle.

   What camera body/lens(es) did you use to shoot them?

   • Thanks! Mostly used my iPhone. Some are shot with a Sony point & shoot. Nothing fancy.

   • Agreed. Joe is an excellent photographer.

   • I also enjoyed the photos.
     It’s all about the background, lighting, composition, perspective.
     It has nothing to do with the camera.

6. I use a lot of JP products in my builds, very high quality components.

   Camo job is outstanding.

7. Cerakoting a pattern with shading like that is a horrific pain in the ass. You got every penny worth of that $600. Good shooter, pretty gun, and it sounds like you learned a whole lot in the process. Enjoy!

8. I don’t understand the quarters in the buffer tube. Are you supposed to do that with regular spring and buffer?

   • No. I think people use the quarters as a quick fix for out of spec buffer tubes. But they are generally not required.

   • I like to hide soda money in my buffer tube, so when I’m out operating and I get thirsty I have what I need on hand.

     The battery compartment of my grip is really useful for holding those travel sized hand lotions too.

9. Great write up Joe. I’ve been buying JP products since the early ’90’s. They are worth every penny.
   I definitely need one of their adjustable gas blocks and captive recoil buffer for my latest. Once I get my ammo dialed in, that is.

10. Perfect timing.

    I got the urge. The urge, to splurge on (my first) build.

11. “More importantly, the weight reduction means that it requires less gas to set it in motion, and less gas equals less recoil equals faster split times.”

    I’m having trouble with your interpretation of the laws of physics. Neither the weight of the BCG nor the gas that push it cause recoil. If we take your logic to the extreme, it would suggest that a BCG with no mass would have no recoil. And we all know bolt guns have recoil.

    The truth is that recoil is created by the same expanding gasses that push the bullet forward. A gas system that pushes the BCG backward, pushes the gun forward at the same time, reducing recoil until the buffer spring reverses this, pushing the BCG forward and pushing the gun backward. Finally, the forward traveling bolt pushes the gun forward as it decelerates and locks into place.

    In the end, the total amount of force is the same but spread out over a longer period of time. Recoil is not reduced but it is softened. But the BCG needs to have some mass in order for that softening to occur.

12. All those jp parts on a self proclaimed jp build, but no supermatch barrel? As Gordon Ramsey would say, “damn….what shame.”

    • Good point! But in my defense, I did have those two barrels just laying around the house doing nothing.

13. I hate to be all negative and things, and really to each his own.

    But this article represents much of what is bad about the gun world. And the internet in general.

    There are several factual errors in this article, which I would have thought the editorial process would have weeded out. (ex – upper to lower fit has NOTHING to do with accuracy, for example, and if it annoys you is easily corrected with a 99 cent part)

    If this story was just a description of the learning experiences of the author it would be fine. The problem is that many people will take some of the pronouncements in this article as fact.

    Also, frankly, I’ve developed a fairly accurate prejudice against people who build “jewelry” rifles. They spend money on pointless upgrades that cost too much and get them nothing but headaches (Noveske selector. What’s wrong with mil spec or the simple domed ambi versions from Rock River Arms?)

    Further – Cerakoting a mag seems just . . . pointless. Why? I know. Its jewelery.

    Here’s a question. Does the author know what NPOA is? How is his trigger control? Has he ever learned to shoot iron sights?

    I may be way way out of line. But this seems typical of the younger guys who are buying/building ARs. Its all hardware. They don’t realize that a good shooter with a M&P 15 Sport can clean their clock in games or kill them from 600 yards away if its in the real world.

    This doesn’t really reflect on the author, but I find it interesting that JP has chosen to increase the mass of their silent spring system. So here it is. You pay big bucks to lighten the BC, then they attach heavier weights to the spring? It makes no sense. Its all part of the same reciprocating mass.

    Don’t get me wrong, I’ve drunk the JP low mass cool aid. I’ve built guns with their LM BC. I’ve also gone one step further and removed all the weights from a standard AR buffer. (Bolt bounce is only really an issue in full auto) The guns run fast and recoil is minimal.

    And finally, what’s with the ridiculously complex brakes. This is machinist masturbation at its worst. Lets make this thing with 200 cuts so it looks cool. OK. It will sell like crazy. The author would have been better off sticking with JP and gotten one of their highly effective Cooley brakes. Or for the ultimate brake an SJC Lund or similar.

    In summary. If you are new to ARs and want to try your hand at building, here is what you should do.
    1) buy an inexpensive factory gun – this will give you trigger time. Something you need more than matching Cerakote magazines. The M&P 15 Sport is a FANTASTIC first gun. Plus it comes with S&W’s lifetime service policy. They even pay shipping both ways if there is a problem.
    2) Go inexpensive where it doesn’t matter (receivers, rail, selector, LPK). There is a good chance that those expensive JP receivers were actually made by AeroPrecision. Which they sell direct for about $70 each.
    3) Spend the money where it matters. Barrel, trigger, You don’t even have to spend a ton of cash to get a decent barrel. Hint – Lothar Walther will sell you a stainless AR barrel for $200. So why not just buy the barrel from them.
    4) Depending on if its a toy or a fighting gun either spend more or less on BCG, gas block since these are critical to reliability.

    Don

    • Oh, Lordie. Where to begin….

      I think you make the mistake of confusing “first time AR builder” with “first time AR owner” or “newbie shooter.” I’ve been shooting (iron sights, no less) since 1976, and I spent 6 years as an Army Officer where I always qualified 39/40 or 40/40 (except the last time, and that was when I first realized I needed glasses). I own 300+ firearms including NFA stuff and an assortment of ARs. I just never built one before.

      As for questions about my natural point of aim, trigger control, etc. Did you see those 1/4 inch 100 yard 3 shot groups? I think they speak for themselves. I like sub-MOA guns, and guns that don’t shoot to that level invariably don’t interest me that much. Although I’ll make some allowances for AKs, etc.

      As for your “advice,” to the new builder. frankly, it makes no sense. You argue that a first time AR “builder” should start by “buying” a cheap factory rifle. I think you missed the point to “building” something from scratch. Does your “homemade” spaghetti consist of a bottle of Ragu and Barilla noodles? Nothing against the S&W M&P 15 – I agree its a great entry-level AR, but that is not what most AR “builders” are about. Builders usually fall into one of two camps: (1) guys just trying to come up with a cheap rifle, and (2) guys who are looking to increase performance beyond the realm of factory rifles. My article addressed that latter situation. There is a lot to be said for factory rifles (including a warranty, better resale value, less hassle, etc), but you have to get up into the 3K category to find a factory rifle that shoots even close to as well as the rifles I built, and, even then, they would not be set up just the way I wanted them. The downside to building, as I found out, is I that I had to tinker with mine for a while to get them to run perfectly. I think with each subsequent building experience, those problems would decrease quickly.

      As for the S&W “lifetime service plan,” keep in mind that they probably won’t honor that if you do any major modifications such as swap barrels, which is what you propose.

      As for tight upper and lower fit not being relevant to accuracy, I think your position on that issue puts you in strong minority. And no, Accuwedges don’t work – just watch the receivers using high-speed cameras. The JP tension pin seems like a good solution, But I haven’t tried it. Some people swear by “AR flat jacks” and “AR15AccuShims” but I haven’t tried them. But why use a band-aid fix when you just step up and buy a matched receiver set?

      The Noveske safety has a 60 degree throw. A standard mil-spec is a 90 degree throw. 60 is 30 less than 90, and less is good. The AXTS Talon is 45 degrees, and I like that even better. Personal preference.

      As for the “masterbation” muzzle brakes, maybe you didn’t read the part about them being flash suppressors as well as muzzle brakes. Yes, the Cooley brake is highly effective, but those style of brakes throw flame balls out the sides of the barrel, and have massive concussion. No serious tactical rifle would have a single function “brake” that performs in that matter. That’s a primary difference between a fun gun and a work gun.

      As for camouflaging the mag, admittedly that is for aesthetics. But why would you camouflage a rifle but not the mag?

      Now you did say one thing I agree with. There is a trend in the AR world for guys to add lots of unnecessary “do-dads” to their rifles. They are the gun equivalent of tchotchkes: BAD levers, offset iron sights, bubble levelers, etc, etc. I am guilty of adding KNS anti-rotation pins and Odin Mag releases, which probably fall into that “not really necessary but look cool” category. Perhaps not unexpectedly, those two items did cause fitment problems with each other. So I’ll give you that one. But to be honest, there is a lot of the AR market is being driven by aesthetic considerations. How else do you explain the “skull” lower receivers, the “War Sport” handrail that can blow a dude’s finger off, just to pick on a few.

      • “As for tight upper and lower fit not being relevant to accuracy, I think your position on that issue puts you in strong minority. And no, Accuwedges don’t work – just watch the receivers using high-speed cameras. The JP tension pin seems like a good solution, But I haven’t tried it. Some people swear by “AR flat jacks” and “AR15AccuShims” but I haven’t tried them. But why use a band-aid fix when you just step up and buy a matched receiver set?”

        No it doesn’t. It’s well recognized in the Hi-Power/Service Rifle community, i.e.the people who actually to this “for a living,” so to speak. The entire sighting system and barrel are on the upper receiver, and cannot more in relation to each other. As long as the sights are on the target, the barrel is in the proper position. A loose upper to lower fit would only affect accuracy if it moved the sights in relation to the barrel. A loose fit is strictly a cosmetic annoyance, but people have been making large money correcting cosmetic annoyances for years.

        Oh, and “noob tip:” the term “noob” went out about 10 years ago.

        Between this, the arrogant and condescending FirearmConcierge, and Nick’s truly awful (and typically incorrect) writing, I’m really starting to doubt the site.

      • Pt 1

        Maybe I misinterpreted the tone of this article but it seems to be directed at relatively new shooters. At least to me, since some of the advice given would be self evident to anyone who had been shooting factory rifles for any length of time. Its from this perspective that I suggested the M&P 15 Sport, with the intent that they leave it stock and shoot it. I guess I should have been more explicit. Building a gun as your FIRST AR is a TERRIBLE idea.

        You state that there are 2 camps of people who build rifles. I’d suggest that there are many. I fall in the, lets call it the third camp. There are lots of experienced shooters who are tired of buying factory rifles and then having to spend another $400 to make it “theirs”. In my case as a Lefty, I usually end up changing the muzzle device, trigger, selector, and mag release. We build our rifles to be great VALUE. Not cheap. Not extravagant. I’ve found that an AeroPrecision matched set with an enhanced upper and their reasonably priced handguard to be an excellent value, for example. This frees up funds to spend on a good trigger and a WOA, Lilja, or Lothar Walther barrel. Since I like to shoot offhand, the trigger is particularly important to me. (love the Geissele High Speed National Match) Again, the beauty of building is you use what you want. You may want some thing more “battle ready” since the trigger I prefer is adjustable, which means it can go out of adjustment. So back to the issue at hand. By being thrifty when it comes to things that don’t really affect how the gun shoots, but spending where it matters most, this “third group” can build a rifle in the $1000 range that is the functional equivalent of $2000 factory build rifles.

        Re brakes – my experience is that any brake that pretends to be both a brake and a FH ends up being mediocre at both. The fist of these unicorn brakes was the BattleComp. This overpriced piece of man jewelry was not as loud as the $35 Miculek comp, but it also didn’t work as well. There is some basic physics at work as to why combo units don’t work particularly well. Its simple in that a good brake forces combustion gasses OUT. And a good FH draws combustion gasses IN. A look at a simple A2 FH shows its reverse venturi creates low pressure inside, which draws gasses INTO the device. Yes, some gas does eject when it hits the distal end of the cuts, but the vast majority of flow in a FH is INTO the device.
        Look at this video, go to the gear icon and set it to 1/4 speed. (link removed to avoid being categorized as spam)
        Now compare the gas flow out of a comp. Skip to 50 seconds.

        All the fancy cuts and paths in the world doesn’t change the fact that gas is either going into or out of the device.

        • Pt 2 – Again, split and rejiggered to avoid being categorized as spam.

          I recently built a M4 (All proper licenses held) that every experienced MG shooter who has shot it has described as the best shooting AR style MG they have ever shot. I did it by using “race tuning” tricks. I put minimal energy into the reciprocating mass of the gun (bad for reliability but good for shootability – we agree on that). I do that by minimizing the weight of the reciprocating mass, reducing the strength of the main spring and greatly reducing the gas, which is what puts energy into the system in the first place.

          Ok back to the brake since this seems to be a stream of consciousness post. A couple of years ago, a company named Ferfrans came out with a brake with a removable shroud. It was $200+. Since then a company called KinetiTech has come out with a similar product that they sell for about $50. It works exactly as advertised. Put the shroud on and all the gasses and noise go out the front. Remove the shroud and you have a pretty good brake. (it would work better if the exit aperture was better matched to the caliber, I’m hoping they fix that). Different configuration, different physics. No flames and reasonable sound if required. You comment that no serious tactical rifle would have something like a Cooley brake. I agree. But no tactical rifle would have custom painted magazines either. Your rifles detailed in this article are toys. Brakes are great on toys.

          Re selector switch – you said less is better. Why? This is really an example of the industry coming up with a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist with the express purpose of selling a $90 product when a $15 (single sided) or $30 (ambi domed) product work perfectly.

          Re slop between upper and lower – ScottS explained it perfectly. I have a 99 cent accuwedge on my CMP rifle. I did it because the motion bothered my sense of how a rifle should be. But I never noticed it when I was actually shooting it in a match. I was too busy focusing on my front sight, and because the sights are on the upper, accuracy is completely unaffected by slop. For what its worth, the $60 AeroPrecision lower includes a slop takeup screw and their $150 matched upper and lower set is as snug as anyone elses. (except for an out of spec Oly Arms, but I digress. )

          Don

        • I built my first AR from parts and I had never fired an AR until I shot mine for the first time. It works fine. I can’t really judge the accuracy because I just have irons and old eyes. I do have experience with firearms, good mechanical ability, and did a ton of research about AR15s on the net.

          I did use decent quality parts: stripped lower from Ranier arms, parts kit from White Oak Arms with an ALG combat trigger, Magpul furniture, and Daniel Defense fixed iron sites. I bought the upper assembled because I didn’t want to worry about headspacing or any other issue with the part that holds in the high pressure loud part. It’s built by Seekins and has a modular free float rail.

          It would have been better if I had waited to buy proper roll pin punches, but it’s a home defense weapon not a work of art. I’m happy with the result but don’t think I’m “hooked”. There are lot’s of other firearms I would rather have than a big collection of ARs. I would like a semi-auto .308 at some point. Another reason I built an AR is the availability of ammunition and parts in a TEOTWAWKI scenario.

      • Does your “homemade” spaghetti consist of a bottle of Ragu and Barilla noodles? DAMN STRAIGHT IT DOES!! ( But then again, I’m Irish. I leave the complicated dinner builds to my EyeTalian wife.) I will build my first AR. I went looking for answers on the JP Enterprises MK III handguard instead of focusing most of my build on Geissele. As a beginner, as a rookie, as a 50-something Ex- Aviation type I got many more answers than I could ever hope for. FFS gents, the tone, the content, all of it was written in a voice targeted to help a guy like me and it did so very well. I suspect he can take it, but lighten up in the guy. shessh.

14. RE: April 24, 2016 at 06:27
    ScottS says:
    “No it doesn’t. It’s well recognized in the Hi-Power/Service Rifle community, i.e.the people who actually to this “for a living,” so to speak. The entire sighting system and barrel are on the upper receiver, and cannot more in relation to each other. As long as the sights are on the target, the barrel is in the proper position. A loose upper to lower fit would only affect accuracy if it moved the sights in relation to the barrel. A loose fit is strictly a cosmetic annoyance, but people have been making large money correcting cosmetic annoyances for years”.

    I take it your receivers are loose and you’re sticking to it. That may be acceptable for you but never hand slop to people who do this “for a living.” They’ll take their business elsewhere.

    CMP rules used to or may still allow a screw to go through the curve above the grip and into the upper receiver lug. Most anything to tighten the receivers was allowed as long as it did not alter the appearance of the original takedown pin configuration. Good hard working Americans put out the effort, time, risk and expense to provide products to tighten receivers because it meets the need of customers, no different than other legit accessory suppliers.

    Improving the relationship between the receivers is attention to detail and one of many steps it takes to assemble a consistent tack driver. Once receiver wobble is eliminated with a NM Shim the load is more evenly distributed across the pins, the hammer cannot lean off center, receivers no longer shift with the highest round in the mag, the upper receiver doesn’t have to catch-up with the lower receiver during rapid target acquisition, etc.
    When it comes to precision shooting the consensus is to eliminate loose as much as possible, that’s chiseled.

15. “Re slop between upper and lower – ScottS explained it perfectly. I have a 99 cent accuwedge on my CMP rifle. I did it because the motion bothered my sense of how a rifle should be. But I never noticed it when I was actually shooting it in a match. I was too busy focusing on my front sight, and because the sights are on the upper, accuracy is completely unaffected by slop. For what its worth, the $60 AeroPrecision lower includes a slop takeup screw and their $150 matched upper and lower set is as snug as anyone elses. (except for an out of spec Oly Arms, but I digress. )” Don”

    The $.99 AccuWedge took some slop out and made it a bit easier to control the rifle and at the same time accuracy is completely unaffected by slop?
    A spongy AccuWedge is not a product that tightens receivers. It works as a buffer that keeps loose parts from getting a running start and slamming into each other. In a match between steel pins and aluminum, steel wins.
    Both an AccuWedge and a receiver screw push up against the upper receiver lug and act as pivot. Because the sides of the receivers are left unsupported the receivers can still tilt side to side. To tighten receivers you have to pull the two halves together until they meet and the sides are supported. Or install a shim that supports the receivers sides and eliminates wobble. The shim fixes most receivers with average play.
    I’ve seen guys who asked how to tighten receivers bullied or made to look stupid for asking a direct question. Most of the time expert bloggers answered the question “How Do You Tighten Receivers?” with “It Doesn’t Affect Your Accuracy.” That’s become the go-to answer for people who cannot answer a direct question.
    If you clamp an upper in a vice and take aim it’s going to be fairly accurate. However if you clamp a lower in a vise with a loose upper and take aim the first shot may be close or those loose wacky harmonics may cause the shooter to say, “That’s Not Where I Aimed.”
    After the first shot is fired the upper has shifted POA due to recoil and feeding the next round into the chamber, etc. The highest round is now on the opposite side of mag and exerting opposite pressure against the carrier and upper. When each round is fired this back and forth receiver dance continues when things are a loose and you have to continually adjust POA.
    Have you ever looked though a pair of loose fitting receivers and observed how much the hammer can lean off center? You really don’t want to waste money on a match grade hammer that tilts back and forth and can strike the firing pin off center. If you are a mag well holder the above is what goes on when you have receiver slop. Of course if the weapon is Class III then the dance is useful. Some people like top pretend their AR is a M16 and the feel of loose receivers can pacify that.
    Try thinking outside the box and treat the lower receiver assembly more like it’s the above mentioned vice holding the upper secure otherwise you have slop and only 1/2 a rifle.

    .

16. I do not agree, read that:
    http://www.outdoorhub.com/news/2016/06/17/breaking-news-daniel-defense-terminates-agreement-academy-sports/
    Friendly, Sabine

17. Article is too wordy.

18. Not sure how this was a build vs placing a order?

    I have build rifles and used custom ordered JP uppers, JP makes great stuff and I very quickly notice the difference between a high end build and a sub 1k poverty pony.

    That said, you lost credibility when you said a poor upper to lower fit hurts accuracy, that’s been proven to ad nauseam to be FALSE, a poor fit is annoying, but that’s about it, I’ve paid the money to not have that issue, but that’s a snob thing more than a ops thing, hard to call out “noobs” when you don’t know some basic stuff, like all the accuracy is in the upper.

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