The J Frame-size magnum revolver has been the quintessential backup gun for decades. And for a good reason. They’re easy to carry, fast to deploy and pack a heck of a punch. Kimber, known for their mid-market 1911s, got into the wheelgun game a few years ago with their version of the powerful snubby. Unsurprisingly, it met with great success. The demand is still strong. This year, they’ve stepped up the class on a classic with their Kimber K6s DCR (Deluxe Carry Revolver) . . .
Day-um this gun is purdy. Jon Wayne likes ’em short and stout and I think maybe Kimber had me in mind for the Kimber K6s Deluxe Carry Revolver. The all-stainless snubby is satin polished, with a hazy mirror finish on the entire gun. It’s even throughout, like a perfectly polished show car.
The K6s’ logo-adorned rosewood grips are deeply and fully checkered. As they should be. I have no desire for soft rubber grips on a revolver, and certainly not on a magnum caliber snubbie.
Your experience may vary, but mine is born of my own experience with the PAC timer and my J Frame. My times are consistently faster with solid grips, either hardwood or G10, than they are with something spongy like a Hogue rubber grip. The Kimber’s wooden grips hold well in the hand and look great but — there’s a bit of a gap in the top of the backstrap where the grip meets the frame. It’s barely there, but it’s there.
I really dig the heavy full length lug under the Kimber’s barrel. Beyond giving the gun a bit of a bulldog look, it puts some much needed weight near the muzzle. It also smooths out the front from a rounded profile, helping make the gun comfortable for conceal and carry.
The K6s’ cylinder release is large, well positioned and textured. I had no problem reaching it with my firing hand thumb, and I never failed to miss it without looking . It would be hard to really. Reach too far and your thumb will likely slide off the cylinder right down onto the release.
Press the release, swing the cylinder out, hammer the ejector with your support hand, and watch that beautiful brass tumble to the floor. To complete the reload, Kimber includes a single speed-strip with the K6s. It holds the cartridges in tightly and releases them quickly once inserted. Feed the round into the empty cylinder, then pull up on the tab to release it. Repeat until full.
Opening up the gun, I was a bit disappointed. There are tool marks and unpolished metal throughout.
Yes, this is kind of like caring about the polish that goes inside my watch that no one will ever see. But polishing the internals displays an overall commitment to quality that I wish I saw inside the DCR. After all, this is the “deluxe” model.
What surprised and impressed me with the K6s: the sights. First of all, there are sights, plural. The front sight is a large bright red fiber optic front sight that pops out in any light. Not just because it’s bright, but also because it sits a little higher on the frame than most revolvers of this size.
The top of the K6s’ frame is grooved — probably just for style points. More importantly, it ends with a proper ramped rear sight. The rear sight is serrated and flat on the back, with a U shaped notch. It’s drift adjustable for windage.
The whole sight set up works great. As soon as I press the revolver forward that front sight pops right into view. Held steady I see just a bit of my target on either side of the rear window.
The sights are larger than most J Frame sights, and yet they never snagged or got caught when drawn from a holster.
I tried drawing the K6s from my back pocket with and without a holster (unfortunately, people do that). I also brought the revolver to bear from my coat pocket, boot, and belt holsters. Again, the draw was smooth, without any catches or snags.
The trigger is the heart of any double-action-only revolver. Kimber’s K6s’ go-pedal is smooth and just light enough at 10lbs to keep the muzzle still during the cycle –if you do your job with your grip. The shoe itself is a tad bit narrow for my tastes, but its polished curvature works well for the platform.
The trigger feel is a bit different from other revolvers. There are three distinct clicks during the cycle. Under careful, slow fire the first two clicks seem like they’re miles apart. The second and third are not. When you hit that third click, the hammer is falling. After click two, hammer-fall feels inevitable.
Those clicks are there, but I hesitate to call them stops or hang-ups. Yes, I can certainly feel and hear them. But with a smooth pull the trigger travels right through them. Obviously, they’re most notable in slow fire. In fast fire the clicks pretty much disappear into one solid action straight back into the gun.
In .38SPL or .38SPL+P, the K6s is a comfortable shooter. In .357 Magnum, it is not. Not with any commercial load or with any grip.
I shoot almost every day. I’ve been a magnum revolver shooter for about 30 years. I’ve carried a J Frame for 20 of those. I’m used to revolvers. I’m used to recoil. This is something else. This thing hurts. Three cylinders in and the web of my thumb was aching. A full 50 round box of Magtech 158gr JSPs and I was bruised, cut and bleeding on the gun.
The pretty little gun has a fairly high bore axis. Couple that with a high, sharp turn at the top of the backstrap and the natural point of the firing hand puts the web of your thumb right there at that turn. A proper crossed thumbs double crush grip will anchor your support hand behind this point. Once you pull that trigger and light it off, the light weight gun, driven by a magnum powder charge, drives the top of that backstrap into the hand sharply.
Held like this, I’m taking a visit to pain city. However, the high, double handed crossed thumbs grip you need on this gun is doing its job. Recoil drives the gun in a line back into the hand, with relatively little muzzle rise, considering the cartridge.
Single handed with a full pressure .357 Magnum load, the gun is shootable, but barely, and too slow to recover for follow up shots.
If the recoil is too much for you, you can increase shooting comfort by lowering your grip on the revolver. This will bring that sharp point of the backstrap above the web of your thumb, which helps with the pain of shooting. It’s still uncomfortable, dramatically increases muzzle rise and diminishes overall control. Not worth it.
If you’re going to spend some magnum time on the range with this pocket atom bomb, wear gloves.
Federal Premium’s Micro HST was an excellent performer in the K6s The round achieves higher pressure by setting the hollow point bullet completely back into the casing. The mouth (because a point this hollow doesn’t have a nose) doesn’t protrude from the case at all. Weird looking, but great performing, equaling that of many 9X19mm loads.
This is one of the newer cartridges specifically designed for the J frame revolver. With a tight single-handed grip I could fire the full cylinder of these rounds into a silhouette at seven yards in just a few of seconds.
I put 300 rounds through the gun without issue. The first 100 in .357 Magnum, the last 200 in .38SPL+P. I shot commercial rounds from Magtech, Federal and Hornady and a quite a few of my own reloads of different types and weights.
Not surprisingly, I had no issues with loading, firing, feeding or ejecting at any time. Looking at the forcing cone and the top strap, there doesn’t appear to be any cutting or wear to the revolver. Nor would I expect there to be.
Great sights and a good trigger made for an unexpectedly high level of precision.
The inexpensive but more than adequate Magtech 158gr JSP in .357 Magnum printed consistent 2 ¾” five round groups at 25 yards on average for four groups. The Hornady 135gr Critical Duty .357 Magnum round scored even better, with a 2 1/2” average. Oddly enough, not a single .38SPL round I tried in this gun shot as well as the .357 Magnums. That Federal Premium round that was fast, easy, and plenty powerful, printed 3 3/4” groups, and none of my hand loads did much better.
Although painful to shoot, the .357 Magnum is manageable enough for a single cylinder and accurate even in quick fire. Pulling the target in to 15 yards, I focused on putting a cylinder’s worth of fury into the 9 ring in five seconds or less. Shooting 4” magnum powered groups off hand at this rate is completely doable. My results would certainly be eclipsed by a more competent shooter but man, I don’t care who you are, at that rate of fire, the gun takes meat on both ends.
I applaud Kimber for stepping into a crowded market long dominated by Smith & Wesson. The K6s DCR is much more attractive than most of the pocket magnums on the market, with a trigger any of their competitors would envy. The well thought out sights — something most J Frames overlook entirely — are a big bonus.
I’d carry the Kimber K6s any day, in .38SPL+P, and not feel the tiniest bit under-armed. I could draw and fire the gun quickly, single handed, from any position, and be confident that I would strike my target accurately with every round. Hiking or hunting is the only time I’d likely fill the cylinder with .357 Magnums, and hope I’d never have to use it.
SPECIFICATIONS: Kimber K6s DCR
Calibers: .357 Magnum/.38 Special
Height (inches): 4.46
Weight (ounces) with empty cylinder: 23
Length (inches): 6.62
Width (inches): 1.39
Cylinder capacity: 6
Action: DAO
Frame Material: Stainless steel
Finish: Satin Silver
Barrel Length (inches): 2
Material: Stainless steel
Sights: Fiber optic
Sight Radius (inches): 4.1
Grips: Laminated rosewood
Trigger Factory setting (approx. pounds: – 9.5-10.5)
MSRP: $1,088
Ratings (out of five stars):
Style and Finish * * * * 1/2
The satin sheen of the stainless steel is executed exceptionally well. The grips are a great choice in both color, texture and style. Kimber had to do something other than put “Kimber” on the gun to stand out, and the beauty of the gun does exactly that. That said, if you’re going to call an upmarket revolver Deluxe, it should be deluxe inside and out.
Customization * *
You may want to change the grips, and you could actually change the sights. Don’t change the sights. But pay what it costs to have custom grips made. You’ll thank me.
Reliability * * * * *
Perfect in all functions. Zero surprises.
Accuracy * * * * *
In a powerhouse round, Kimber’s snubby delivered sub 3″ five-round average groups at 25 yards for any and every round tested. Many were considerably better. Stepping down to the .38SPL it suffered, but given the accuracy of the .357 Magnum rounds, I believe I haven’t found the right .38SPL round.
Overall * * * * 1/2
It’s pretty. It carries very well. It handles exceptionally well. It has a different but great trigger. Reliability wasn’t a surprise but accuracy was. Yes, it’s painful and frankly damaging (to the shooter) to fire in .357 Magnum. Half a star off for rough internals and an imperfect wood-to-metal fit.
So, the main differences between this and the original are the sights, finish, and grips?
Excellent review.
If I didn’t already have a S&W 640 I’d take a real close look at the Kimber snubbies.
The extra round capacity is offset somewhat by the price.
On the 640, I put some hard rubber Pachmayr grips that cover the backstrap and allow purchase w/ my little finger. They make a slightly larger package but shooting comfort is MUCH more pleasant.
” I’m used to revolvers. I’m used to recoil. This is something else. This thing hurts.”
Looking at the pic of it with the grip off, one thing jumps out at me.
There’s a *lot* of un-used room in there. They could easily have made he the hammer-spring housing be fully forward in that grip and then mounted a block of shock-absorbing materiel in a hollowed-out area in the grip. And a pivot-point to make it work.
That would go a long way to civilize shooting it with defensive loads…
Geoff PR,
That revolver is just too light: nothing is going to make shooting .357 Magnum loads not be painful.
“…nothing is going to make shooting .357 Magnum loads not be painful.”
I respectfully *partially* disagree.
Tell you what – Shoot a J-frame bare-handed, then shoot it again with a cyclist’s jell-palm padded glove. Or nearly any padded work glove.
Night.
And day.
Perfect, hell no. But a whole lot nicer to experience, with just that thin 1/4 inch gell padding.
Tell me I’m lying on that.
You can’t request your assailant to allow you to put on your gloves, but some engineering smarts can build some cushion into that palm-swell grip.
Rubber on the outside hangs up on the draw, build it *inside* that snag-free hard shell…
After reading this review, just more reasons I think the the Ruger LCR .357 is the best light weight revolver. Fantastic trigger and recoil from .357’s is moderate, including those Magtech 158 gr JSP’s mentioned. Hell, when a petite female relative uses this gun, she loves the .357’s, finding the recoil not excessive at all.
Dave M.,
Check into it: I think you will find that MagTech Magnum loads are about the lightest Magnum load available.
Cost as much as my ruger redhawk. That’s an expensive backup gun.
Kudos to Kimber for using actual rosewood for the grips. Most manufacturers just use Dymondwood for their “cocobolo” or similar exotics.
I agree with Geoff PR in that there’s a lot of room in that grip where some weight could be added for comfort, but I know Kimber was going for the “lightest” trophy. Extending the bottom of the frame forward to the front of the grip (like an L), or milling the stainless out and putting a piece of tungsten in it’s place would likely prove beneficial.
That’s pricey for a snubby. For that kinda coin if just opt for a med/full revolvers. You can get a really nice pistol for that price. And snubbies are no fun to shoot. I shoot about 2-3 cyclinders in my SW 642 before I tap out.
I agree it is pricey. But the K6 has the best trigger of any snub revolver on the market, big blocky sights you can actually see in a hurry, and all of the sharp edges beveled. I think the price is comparable to a S&W 640 Pro which has similar features. If you buy a regular j-frame out of the box and pay for a trigger job, a dehorn job, and custom sights from Bowen or D&L, that will all add up to more than the Kimber’s cost.
And it’ll still have MIM innards, while the Kimbers have none.
Can’t help but think a pachmayr diamond pro grip would be a better choice
Pretty much lose any ballistic advantage with a 2″ barrel. I’ve seen and held Kimber revolvers. Not my thing…
You lose about 400 FPS from a 4 to a 2 inch barrel with 357 magnum. But you’ll still be 200 FPS faster than a standard 38 spl and 100 fps faster than a 38+p. So the real question, is the extra 100 fps worth all the boom boom.
As long as V is squared, then yes, a 100fps means a lot of energy. From 50% to 75% more depending on the load.
I do not believe the extra 100 fps get you anything.
As I understand it, the best load out of a snubbie for stopping human attackers is a standard pressure .38 Special cartridge with 158 grain full wadcutters.
Even though they only exit the barrel at something like 850 fps, they seem to make a surprisingly LARGE permanent wound channel.
Actually, .357 mag is about 300 fps faster out of a snub nose than .38 spc +p, 850 fps vs about 1150 fps. That’s a massive difference in energy.
This is a very nice gun. Great looking and I agree they have a nice trigger-better than my S&W model 638. I like Kimber guns and have one of their 1911s in 9mm. I would assume Kimber doesn’t polish the interior for cost reasons-otherwise the gun would be even more expensive. I don’t shoot my S&W snubbie regularly (2x/year or so) and don’t enjoy it-it’s too light. I’d think I’d enjoy this all stainless more being it weighs 50% more than the airweight.
That said jwtaylor- I’m impressed with the 2.5″ groups at 25 yards from a snubbie-what groupings do you shoot with the S&W snubbies at that distance?
I dislike shooting full-house .357 Mags from a light weight snubby. I’m recoil tolerant, but that’s a form of masochism that I just don’t get, especially since firing the same round from a duty-size revolver is quite a lot of fun.
Even plain-jane .38 Spls can overwhelm a 15 oz. J-Frame Airweight. Sure, I’d carry a snubby with .357 mags for self defense, but practicing with them is another matter. Once cylinder and I’m done.
The Kimber’s extra avoirdupois should help a little, but not enough. She’s certainly a beautiful beyotch, but too damn snappy.
Not about to shoot 357 though a snub nose revolver.
I am recoil resisted as a 67 year old woman with less than strong hands any more.
I’m sticking with Ruger GP 100 3” WC version, of carrying a revolver. Going more with 9 mm pistols with hollow point ammunition.
Last time I used 357 ammunition in same revolver, muzzle flip was so high , almost hit myself on the forehead. 38 Special hollowpoint doesn’t have nearly the recoil. In fact a more pleasant experience and much more accurate shots.
A woman has to know her limits.
This is your bear carry gun. You’re on the ground with bear on top and you have 6 quick shots to change its mind.
It’s short enough to use at close quarters and it won’t jam from bear fur.
I’d say if you’re on the ground with a bear on top of you, you walked into the wrong damn bar.
As long as I don’t walk into a BAR.
“I’d say if you’re on the ground with a bear on top of you, you walked into the wrong damn bar.”
Now, I’ve been on the ground once with a ‘Cougar’ on top, and it was…
Rather nice… 🙂
And it was shortly after the bar closed…
(Not at all surprised I’d go there, now are you? 😉 )
No…..not really.
Ba dum bum!
It’s pretty… but not the kind of gun I particularly care about prettiness. Not exactly a BBQ sized gun.
uncommen sense, I think you mean Semi Wadcutters since there are no full wadcutters in 158 grains. and you are right 158 grain semi wadcutter hollow points are very good manstoppers. and I think that the early versions of speer 135 gr hp were good too. ( I think that they are starting to load that down now, originally they flew out at about 891-895 fps now I see more like 850-860fps). and that Kimber is more like a colt d frame sized and not a j frame sized. and the new colt cobra is cheaper to boot. and buffalo bore has some plus p round that are really 357 short magnums ( 110 hp, 125 hp and 158hp) as well as standard pressure 110,125,158gr hp rounds that come out at the same speeds that other companies have their plus p rounds come out at. it is nice to see new revolvers coming out though.but if I were to carry a 357 for defense wich I have done it would be one of my K frames, as I also don’t want the recoil that comes with a small magnum revolver. and I think that Kimber needs some nice 3 finger rubber grips that cove the back of the gripframe and follow the shape of the recurve on top. that would aid in the control of the gun.
Right On, Glenn….I own a Kimber K6 DCR and have put more than 500 rounds through it, using a variety of loads….it is my primary California CCW weapon….it prefers 110 gr Winchester JHP’s, and is lest of a beast that way then with a full boat 158gr semi waddcutter HP….but as you say, as a manstopper, and that’s why I carry it….that would do the job most effectively….I am allowed 3 weapons listed on my California CCW,,and they are my Colt Python 2 1/2 inch blued….it like 357 Remington 125 grain Golden Saber BJHP, but that round is, as we know more effective in at least a 3 inch or 4 inch weapon….but we also know that having to go to battery, overwhelming is in the 4 to 7 foot range, so it’s kind of a moot point….That Colt is 40 years old and a tack driver, out to a decent range….my third is my also vintage Colt Detective Special with covered ejector….it is also accurate shooting Federal Premium 129 gr hydrashock plus P JHP…..it can handle it all day long…….thank you for your excellent summation on this Kimber…..We all have our opinions in the gun world, and there is no doubt about that!!….I respect each and every one of them….that’s why some buy Winchester, some buy Savage model 99’s etc…….My wife shoot this Kimber, actually better than I do, and she has pretty small hands..25 feet and she is a dead eye Dick…..with 110grs of three five seven…….thanks again………Don McPherson…….and yes….I have your USCCA coverage….I wouldn’t be without it…….Former Naval Aviator and carrier fighter pilot, Vietnam…..I drove F4’s off of Constellation and Ranger…….DM………
You won’t use rubber grips and then promptly complain about .357 recoil? Come on.
“You won’t use rubber grips and then promptly complain about .357 recoil? Come on.”
*Good* rubber grips can definitely tame a snubbie’s bite, but the problem is, rubber ‘hangs up’ on clothing when deep concealed. That Kimber snub just *begs* to be deep-concealed.
There was a ‘ribbed’ rubber one I have tried on someone’s .357 snub that was fairly effective, but rubber on the outside grabs on clothing.
That’s why I was grousing above about a lack of an engineering solution for a hard, non-‘grabby’ snubbie grip with some softening action. I’m not unrealistic, it’s tough getting blood from rocks. But a non-inconsequential improvement in comfort can be had with just wearing a glove with some padding when firing those guns.
There is a fair amount of un-used room in that grip. Use that space to fashion some type of suspension to tame it somewhat…
“MSRP: $1,088”
Seriously? It’s a snub-nose revolver with no real heritage. A rookie in the revolver world. Other than gun fetish stroking value, why would anyone drop a grand on a snubby, with intriguing new semis like the Sig 365 going for under $600? Kimber suffers from a serious lack of appropriate humility. Need we remind them that their reputation in general is poor due to their history of 1911 reliability issues? These guys are pushing champagne pricing with a Pabst Blue Ribbon reputation (my apologies to Pabst ,who are at least priced appropriately). I can understand some hubris in the pricing of the Colt Cobra, for example, given Colt’s revolver legacy. But Kimber? I’m sorry, but what the actual fuck?
(Disclaimer: post made under the considerable influence of rye whiskey)
If it’s well made(it is) and works(sure seems to) who the hell cares about heritage or “humility”? Christ forbid you have to pay a bit more for something that isn’t 50% plastic and riddled with metal injection molded parts. It’s certainly better made than the Cobra, which is 1. not even made by Colt and 2. practically 100% MIM. But that gun has a pony stamped on the side, and that’s what is really important…
The salient point is about reliability and Kimber’s reputation for a lack thereof. If that is not ‘really important’ in your choice of manufacturers, then good luck to you. You may need it.
As I recall Kimber’s reputation stemmed from some questionable MIM parts in their 1911s, back when SIG’s current CEO was running things. He’s gone, and this thing supposedly has zero MIM in it. The only thing keeping me from getting a 3″ model is I’d prefer an exposed hammer.
I agree. I was feeling buyers remorse after dropping 980.00 on this little piece but let me tell you this. I’ve fired all the light weight Rugers in revolver (357/38/spl) and this Kimber is better balanced for the 38’s or 357’s than any snub nose that I’ve touched. The draw from the pocket is more desirable and reliable than any other due to the tappered cylinder. Looks wise, nothing compares. No sharp edges, a true sleek and sexy strong original piece. I know value is of importance and most would agree that Kimber is not “limber” in price but this gun is for close up and personal with no snags or screw ups. Money be gone but she sure looks good and performs well.
I bought the K6s standard model and I’m going to upgrade to the DCR. I also have a S&W 640 pro the jury is still out as to which one I like better. The sights and 1 more round is a plus
Not trying to be smartass (this one time) but doesnt “I never failed to miss it without looking” that you missed it every time? English not being my first language, I’m not 100% sure. ☺
I have yet to find a snub nose, small frame revolver that soaks up recoil like the Ruger SP101 does. I’ll gladly take the extra weight and bulk of the SP101 all day. And it still carries well. The kimber looks nice, but the fact that everyone I talk to says its a rough experience shooting hot self defense 357 rounds. It is a sharp looking revolver thou.
The SP101 is a fine gun, but the fact that Kimber managed to squeeze a sixth shot into a revolver that size – in .357 Mag no less – is what really piques my interest. Especially as I’d never actually load the thing with .357…the more shots between reloads the better.
After reading JWT’s comments about his grip and how shooting this thing hurt with .357 magnum, I did a little searching and I found this advice from the master. Just thought I’d pass it on in case anyone found it useful:
http://www.shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/MICULEK2/miculek2.html
Most of my experience with a snubnose with with my Ruger LCR .357 magnum. I find it completely comfortable with +P and stings with .357 magnum unless I wear a glove — I think I just need to improve my grip so I don’t get that little slap against my palm. Accuracy with .357 magnum is great, despite the sting.
I don’t consider a glove a real answer, since I figure I’m not going to be able to say “Wait, let me don my shooting glove!” in a self-defense situation. 🙂 I carry it with +P, generally. Save the .357 magnum for my S&W 681 4″ and my Rossi M92
In the link you posted, where Jerry refers to the “J-Frame” grip, that is the same grip I was referring to when I wrote: “A proper crossed thumbs double crush grip will anchor your support hand behind this point.”
I have put a thousand rounds of 110 grain 357 mags through my Kimber DCR.. going down to that load , rather than 125, or 158, made all the difference in the world,. A fine fine weapon
Do they ship the guns directly to the gunsmith or are they still selling them retail?
Recoil? Physics is an unavoidable B _ _ _ H! Solution’s easy. MAG-NA-PORT Been using for nearly FOUR DECADES. That’s Larry Kelly’s company in Michigan; not one of their imitators. On Kimber’s K6 DCR.. should cut recoil by 1/3. Have it QUAD-PORTED if possible.
One of many ‘Mag-na-Port’ Stories. Good friend of many years purchased a 4″ Scandium S&W 44mag. and asked for me to ‘test shoot’ his gun before he shot it (likely from knowing MANY rounds fired through original Freedom Arms 454 Casull (pair, 4-3/4″ and 7″ with scope), using 454 loads having DOUBLE muzzle energy of 44mag.
On with story, end of day at range (one of RO’s), fired 12 factory 240gr JHP, that was all fun could stand for day (even wearing PAST recoil shooting gloves). Friend followed advise, paying up charge (due to Scandium); had gun Mag-na-Ported,,, HALF RECOIL WAS GONE.
In past, having TWO Ruger Redhawk’s, both 7-1/2″, one Mag-na-Port other not. Same factory 240gr JHP and ANYONE shooting could easily tell which gun was ported, even handed gun with eyes closed. Big difference in recoil. Another Ruger Blackhawk 44mag with 4-3/4″ barrel and QUAD-PORTED by MNP. Despite shorter barrel which normally gives greater recoil, the QuadPorted gun was noticeable better than Standard Ported 7-1/2″ Redhawk (heavier gun to boot); difference was HUGE comparing QuadPorted Blackhawk to NON-Ported Redhawk with any magnum load. Even ‘light’ defense load, copying SuperVel’s specs, has 180gr. Sierra JHP chronograph’s 1,850fps from 7-1/2″ gun, was like shooting 38spl target loads in full size.
Personally have Mag-na-Port process done on so many rifle’s, pistols and shotgun (Pro-Porting, best is ‘Pigeon’ Port (more holes). MNP uses EPDM process which cuts EXACT size trapezoid slots in handguns, different shape /size Quad-Port (originally done for Rifles), etc. has NO affect on velocity and NO affect on Finish (NO as in NONE, ZERO, NADA, ZIP) but what is does is CUT DOWN RECOIL. Had testing done way back when, using 44 magnum, % reduction in recoil was ~ 47% for 4″ gun and 33% for 7-1/2″ guns. More weight and barrel length, using that ‘Physics’ thing again, will have less and as your gun get smaller and lighter,, what you feel in your hand when trigger is pulled is HUGE. Worth ever penny and more if you shoot your guns.
Appears like a decent firearm, however, somewhat overwhelming and too substantial a trigger. Would be more intrigued by this in the event that it was a 327 Fed
This gun makes much more sense in the (newer) 3″ barrel length for many reasons, especially when loading it with .357. There is one question I see answered in none of the reviews of the Kimber K6S line, though, viz. what kind of internal drop safety, if any, does it have? Both S&W and Ruger have their firing pin block or transfer bar, even with shrouded hammers. I can’t tell from the photo of the Kimber sans side plate what is at work there. Anyone have that information?
Just looked at 3 of the 3″ K6 revolver the barrel finish was atrocious, many dimples and stutter marks, could not get past that to make a purchase, if the exterior was this shoddy can’t imagine the parts you can’t see. Typical of Kimbers arrogance.
I just purchased this beauty, and as a CCW holder , here in California, this will be my concealed carry weapon…I have been around firearms since I was nine years old, and have experienced everything from 22’s to 454 Casulls….and everything in between..This is one fine revolver, but as has been said, ad nauseam, this gun just plain hurts when shooting any 357 load….period….My first loads were 158 gr Feds…..big mistake!….and on to 125’s and it still hurt , a lot…..I have a Smith model 29 3 inch, non fluted that doesn’t hurt nearly as much, even when putting 240 grains through it…..What this Kimber really liked was Federal Premium 38 ( Plus P) 129 grain Hydra-shok, JHP…….so that is what is going to be used, until if and when I can find something better….And, as has been said…….for hunting, and hiking (I live in Mammoth lakes, Ca, in the Eastern Sierra, where hiking and hunting is a way of life)…I will carry this 2 in with 357’s aboard…..or ….just move up to my Smith Model 65 3 inch stainless….It handles 357’s very well..in fact, my wife shoots it better than I do!…Thanks for such an excellent review….it is spot on accurate…..respectfully. ” Cactus sends”…..Humble Naval Aviator and carrier fighter pilot, Vietnam…….F4 driver, off of Connie and Ranger………………….r/dm
I have the 3in barrel version. There doesn’t seem to be any appreciable difference between .38 +p loads and .357 110 gr hollow points, honestly; they’re both very comfortable to shoot. (158 gr .357 are very hard on the hand, I admit, way too powerful for this relatively small gun.) I haven’t tried 125 gr. .357 loads yet, but I’ve read that they are not only doable but recommended for this size gun for their manageability combined with their superior stopping power. I think I’ll be buying a box soon.
I’ve been pocket-carrying an earlier version of this gun for many months. I moved up from a Taurus 85, an older and decent one, but going to the Kimber was like stepping from an old VW Bug and into a Porsche 911.
Probably the first owner hated shooting .357s from it, because it was barely fired and I saved $200 from the going prices around here. I found it not as bad as the author did, at least for my own .357 mid-power reloads.
For carry, it’s excellent with .38 +p. Hornady Critical defense penetrates and expands well from the Kimber (check the Lucky Gunner ballistics on that). Recoil is negligible too, even after a few cylinders worth. Milder .38s are to me like shooting .22 LR from this handgun, but it has some flash and noise, even then.
Though pocket-carry purists think the rubber grips are bad news, I find they don’t catch on my pants pocket with a good holster. And they reduce recoil more than this model’s pretty wooden grips.
BTW, I’m not a Kimber fanboy. I dig Rugers and older S&W guns. Kimber 1911s are very nice but I’m into working guns, not race-guns. But this thing is a great tool, with a DAO trigger to match. The LCR’s is excellent, too, but I wanted a heavier gun and a 6th round is a nice option. Colt’s new bobbed-hammer Cobra is a good option, too, but it’s more expensive.
Find one if you can to try out. If you like snubbie wheel guns, you’ll enjoy this one. If not, you may be pleasantly surprised.
Why buy a Mercedes SUV (Kimber) when you can get a Toyota SUV (Ruger SP101) at half the price with the same or better reliability?
BTW, I did my annual LEOSA qualification shoot with two guns: a Glock 17 and my 27 year old Ruger SP 101 this week. At ten yards in, the little Ruger snubby grouped tighter than the Glock firing double action only. I will stick with the Ruger for real world stuff.
Why? Because, like a Mercedes, it just ‘drives’ and performs better than a Toyota. The trigger on the Kimber, for example, would cost you some stiff coin at the pro-shop over at Smith & Wesson. I have snubbies from both and, believe me, there IS a difference, beyond the fact that the Kimber has recessed rim wells in the cylinder and that it handles six, not five, .357s with no sweat. As for reliability, you say that the Smiths have equal or better reliability, but you’ve nothing to prove that. As I said, I have both guns (a S&W 642) and I’ve not any proof in that direction either. (Oh, and let’s not forget that 3″ barrel available at Kimber but not at S&W. When using the remarkably stronger .357 cartridge, why would you want to burn most of the powder OUTSIDE the gun and thus waste its energy, exactly what happens with a 2″ barrel?)
I ordered a Kimber TLE K6S three inch in black, at the end of March, 2020, via a local gun shop- in person. Come mid-August, 2020, it has not arrived yet. Is it just the pandemic causing such delays? Have you had similar experience? Thank you.
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I call BS. The recoil is no harsher than a 640. It is a pussy cat compared to the LCR. If you have the bread and hate yourself it is night and day gentler than the 340PD. This article is S&W fanboy fiction. Buffalo Bore makes an excellent “light” 357 hollow point. Low flash powder so you don’t go blind, less muzzle blast for your ear holes, a smidge less snappy if the villain somehow requires another Magnum to f@ck off. The K6s is the pinnacle of snubs unless you want something much lighter that you pray you never have to fire in self defense.
I agree with you , the author is a pussy who doesn’t know how to properly hold a snub nose , I have a 640 a SP101 and 2 Kimber’s K6S DASA and DA, those 2 I carry, shooting 357mag is like a +P from an Airweight, the 642 is one
of my other carry guns
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