As any seasoned shooter knows, properly zeroing your rifle is crucial for accuracy and successful hunting. But let’s face it – with today’s ammo prices, spending all day at the range burning through box after box can put a serious dent in your wallet. The good news is that with some smart techniques and a bit of know-how, you can get your rifle dialed in quickly while conserving precious ammunition. Let’s explore some proven methods to zero your rifle efficiently and effectively.
Understanding the Basics
Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s review what we mean by “zeroing” a rifle. Simply put, zeroing is the process of adjusting your sights or scope so that your point of aim matches your point of impact at a specific distance. Most hunters zero their rifles at 100 yards, but depending on your hunting scenario and the cartridge you’re shooting, you might choose a different distance such as 50 yards or 200 yards.
Start with a Solid Foundation
The key to efficient zeroing starts before you even fire a shot. Make sure your rifle is properly maintained and that all scope mounts and rings are tight. A loose mount can cause frustrating shifts in your point of impact, wasting time and ammo.
Next, ensure you’re using a stable shooting platform. A good set of sandbags or a sturdy rifle rest like the Bulls Bag X7 I use can make a world of difference. The more stable your rifle, the easier it will be to identify and correct any shooting errors.
Bore Sighting: Your First Step
One of the best ways to save ammo when zeroing is to start with a good bore sight. Many modern rifle packages, like the Savage Axis II XP, come from the factory with a scope that is already bore sighted. If yours doesn’t, consider investing in a laser bore sighter. They are not overly expensive and can save you money over time in ammunition costs if you have multiple rifles and like to swap out scopes. Models such as the Sightmark Laser Bore Sight can cost as little as $20 to fit a specific caliber, while more versatile models such as the Bushnell Arbors Laser Boresighter or LaserLyte Laser Bore Sight Deluxe Kit will run you between $40 and $90. These handy tools can usually get you on paper at 100 yards without firing a single round.
To use a bore sighter, simply insert it into the chamber or muzzle of your unloaded rifle and align the laser dot with your target. Then, adjust your scope or sights until the crosshairs line up with the laser dot. Another option is to remove the bolt from your rifle, and look through the barrel to find the target, and then adjust the crosshairs line up with the target. This method isn’t perfect, but it’ll get you close enough to start fine-tuning with live fire.
The 25-Yard Method
Here’s a nifty trick that can save you a ton of ammo: start your zeroing process at 25 yards instead of 100. At this shorter distance, small errors in your sight picture or trigger control won’t be magnified as much, making it easier to get on target quickly.
For most modern hunting cartridges, like the popular 6.5 Creedmoor, your point of impact at 25 yards should be about 1.5 inches below your point of aim for a 100-yard zero. This method works because of the arcing trajectory of your bullet – it rises slightly after leaving the barrel before dropping back down to your point of aim at 100 yards.
Start by firing a three-shot group at 25 yards, aiming at the center of your target. If your group is reasonably tight (say, 1 inch or less), go ahead and make your sight adjustments. Move your point of impact up until it’s about 1.5 inches below your point of aim. Once you’ve done this, you should be very close to zeroed at 100 yards.
Fine-Tuning at 100 Yards
Now it’s time to move out to 100 yards and fine-tune your zero. Thanks to your work at 25 yards, you should already be on paper and fairly close to your desired point of impact. Fire another three-shot group, taking care to use good technique and a stable position.
If your group is close to your point of aim but not quite there, go ahead and make the necessary adjustments. Remember, most scopes adjust in 1/4 MOA increments, which means each click moves your point of impact about 1/4 inch at 100 yards.
The Importance of Good Ammo
When zeroing your rifle, it’s crucial to use the same ammo you plan to hunt or compete with. Different loads can have significantly different points of impact, even in the same caliber. For instance, when I was zeroing a Savage Axis II in 6.5 Creedmoor, I found that the Hornady Outfitter CX 120 grain and the Hornady Precision Hunter ELD-X 143 grain had different points of impact.
If you’re on a budget, consider using less expensive practice ammunition for getting on paper and initial zeroing. Remember to use a similar grain weight as your hunting ammo for best results. Then you can confirm and fine tune your zero with your hunting ammo to save rounds for the hunt.
The One-Shot Zero Method
If you’re really looking to save ammo, consider the one-shot zero method. This technique requires a rock solid shooting platform and a steady hand, but it can get you zeroed in only two or three shots.
Here’s how it works: After bore sighting, take one careful shot at your 100-yard target. Don’t adjust your scope yet. Instead, without moving the rifle, adjust your scope’s crosshairs to align perfectly with the hole you just made in the target. If your rifle did move during the shot, get the crosshairs back on the target’s bullseye, and then adjust the crosshairs to the initial bullet impact. In theory, you’re now zeroed.
Of course, it’s always wise to confirm with another shot or two. But if you’ve done everything right, you should be pretty darn close to a perfect zero.
Using a Ballistic Calculator
In today’s high-tech world, ballistic calculators can be a huge help in zeroing your rifle efficiently. These tools, many of which are available as smartphone apps, allow you to input data about your rifle, scope and ammunition, and then provide detailed trajectory information.
By using a ballistic calculator, you can predict where your bullet should impact at various distances. This can help you make more precise adjustments and understand how your zero at one distance will affect your point of impact at others. For best results, test your actual load velocity with a chronograph.
Don’t Forget About Temperature
Here’s something many shooters overlook: temperature can have a significant effect on your bullet velocity and zero. Extreme heat or cold can change the point of impact of your rifle by several inches at 100 yards and beyond. If possible, try to zero your rifle in conditions similar to those in which you’ll be hunting or competing.
Better yet, check your zero a day or two before your hunt in similar weather conditions. Many hunting outfitters require this before taking a client out in the field. It’s worth spending an extra round to be confident in your shot during the moment of truth.
Wrapping Up
Zeroing your rifle doesn’t have to be a time-consuming, ammo-burning ordeal. By starting with a good bore sight, a stable shooting platform and applying one of the zeroing methods, you can get your rifle dialed in quickly and efficiently.
Remember, the goal isn’t just to save ammo – it’s to attain a precise zero with your rifle and ammunition combination. This knowledge will serve you well whether you’re hunting whitetails in the back 40 or ringing steel at 500+ yards. So get out there, zero that rifle, and remember – every shot is an opportunity to learn and improve.
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Good basic article.
I’ve always used the 25 yard method. Zero. Move to 100 yards. 3″ high for flat calibers. 1 1/2″ for 30-30 etc. Remember, those 1/4″ clicks at 25 yards are X4.
On many rifles, you can look down the barrel and align the scope’s crosshairs with a distant target in view through the barrel. Simply turn your windage and elevation knobs opposite of the displayed up-down/left-right indicators and your crosshairs will co-witness with the view down the barrel. It will get you on paper without wasting a single round.
What he said. Even veteran rifle shooters forget this. Another trick with a scope is to make sure It is at mechanical zero. Screw the elevation knob all the way down. Start turning back up counting rotations. Divide rotations by 2 and set the elevation at that number of rotations. Repeat with windage. Have never failed to get someone on paper at 100 yds doing this.
Laser bore sighters are super helpful.
This is a great country–make sure you vote so we can keep it.
TRUMP/VANCE 2024! 🫡
I like to use up as much ammo as possible when zeroing – then all I have to do is forget to stop at the store and buy more 2 or 3 times, and boom!, season’s over and I skated thru yet another year without doing all that work.
Vote!
A one-shot zero works fine, so long as every subsequent shot goes through the same hole.
But that’s not the way mechanical systems work. Shots land within a circle of probability. As you remove sources of imprecision, that circle shrinks. Set your scope at the center of the circle.
You can’t tell whether a single shot landed in the center of the circle of probability, or over at one edge. After adjusting your scope to that shot, your next shot might land at the other edge of the circle. You can spend a box of ammo chasing shots around.
Three shots is a minimal number to estimate a group size and location. Five is better. After shooting a small enough group without moving the rifle, set the scope in the middle of the group.
I spent $506 zeroing in my .460 Weatherby then took it to the police buy back because one of the other range users told me it looks like a Sniper Rifle.
you had a ~$2,500.00 (not sure what you paid for it, or the model, maybe it was the out of production Mark V Safari model which is cheaper, or a used one that you got cheaper) which can be had cheaper) .460 Weatherby on which you spent another $506.00 zeroing to a police buy-back and got maybe a $50.00 – $100.00 ‘payment’ (gift card or cash?) because some range user said it looked like a sniper rifle?
I have one question that covers all the questions I was going to ask from zeroing to the police buy back …
Are you insane?
Dduly some peoplestill need to see the “//s” at the end of comment evidentally
I know it was sarcasm, an insane sarcasm cause having a .460 is kinda a bragging rights thing.
The 460 Roy should come with a chiropractor attached.
When bore-sighting or using the on-shot method, your scope adjustments are going to be reversed from normal use.
How to suitably zero your rifle – the self-defense and country defense method:
1. Place a radical violent left winger like Miner49er down range to hold target.
2. Take aim at target, pull trigger. When you see a red mist or hear a scream, or radical violent left winger collapses and no longer moves, the rifle is suitably zero’d.
3. If conditions in step two indicating suitable zero achieved have not yet occurred, make proper adjustments and repeat step 2.
4. If conditions in step two indicating suitable zero achieved have occurred, practice with remaining ammo.
I’d never shoot at Miner49.
A good hammer last a long time.
Agreed, communist vermin don’t merit ammo.
Although the hammer use might be satisfying, ya can’t suitably zero your rifle with a hammer.
Minute of Communist
The receiver level has to be set TDC and the scope vertical crosshair has to align TDC. I use small Starrett bubble levels to level the receiver and a plumb bob for the scope. After sometimes painstaking setup it’s time to boresight by eye or laser.
Just buy a shotgun.
Depending on the platform, I usually secure the rifle, remove the bolt and look through the inside of the barrel of the weapon at the target. I center the barrel on the target and then adjust the sights/scope to the same spot on the target.
That usually gets me close on the first shot. This isn’t a perfect method however since light travels in straight lines and projectiles do not.